Redang Perhentian Islands
PEOPLE often ask me what’s the best dive site I’ve experienced in Malaysia. My answer is always the same: “What are you looking for?”
Sipadan, in Sabah, has unrivalled underwater but it is expensive to visit. Tioman off Johor, especially Salang Beach, is great for party-hard divers but has brown, coarse sand. Redang in Terengganu has the best corals but is devoid of nightlife. Mabul and Mataking in Sabah are great for macro marine-life spotting but little else.
One that offers everything is the Perhentian Islands. It doesn’t cost much to get there either, with a good selection of buses and flights available. Thirty minutes after leaving Besut jetty, you’re already in paradise.
The islands’ idyllic surrounds make them one of Malaysia’s best diving destinations.
The Long Beach adventure should start above ground – literally. For a small fee, holiday-goers can begin their day rock-climbing. I’m talking near-vertical gradients that overlook the pristine sea, with barely a crack or dent to grip into.
Friendly encouragement from the guides below was all I needed to pretend to be Tom Cruise in Mission: Impossible.
The rock-climbing experience was organised by Bubu Resort’s friendly staff. They even allowed my group to try out an easier spot before taking on a challenging one.
Long Beach’s wide expanse of powdery sand means plenty of room for al fresco meals at lunchtime. Choose between any of the many restaurants and cafés on the beach. You can also go trinket or souvenir hunting here and won’t feel cheated by inflated prices.
Of course, diving is what we’re here for and I rate Long Beach’s house reef (ie. local dive site) as a fantastic start for anyone. Beginners will find it easy and shallow, while experienced, eagle-eyed divers will have great encounters.
Diving off Long Beach
The trick is to dive late in the afternoon – tides and currents change at this time and nocturnal animals come out to forage for an early meal.
It’s usually a haven for blue-spotted stingrays, but this time I was in for a surprise. Barely 10 minutes later I was startled by a creature flapping its wings past my left shoulder.
White-bellied with a black top-coat of white blotches, I realised that this was the elusive eagle ray. I tried to near it but it soared away, ending my short but rare encounter.
Fifty metres further down, a huge mottled-brown grouper residing near one of the coral bommies (large mounds of coral) started to approach me. The two-metre beast must have been new to Long Beach. With an oversized jaw and thick lips, it looked menacing. I breathed a sigh of relief when it turned away.
I dived at Long Beach late in the evening the next day. Sadly, there was no sign of the eagle ray, but the resident grouper was there, and once again fled when it caught sight of me.
Rock-climbing is something new for holidaymakers to Long Beach.
When I looked up, though, there was a fascinating scene of bumphead parrotfish feeding. They’re big fish – at least two metres long – and have scary beaks.
There were at least 10 of them, some nibbling through coral like they were candy bars. While some dive sites are usually named after a particular marine feature or fish, Long Beach’s reef is unpredictable, producing surprises all the time.
The only predictable part about this place is the great partying after an evening dive.
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May 26th, 2007 at 4:41 pm
Redang Island is a scuba diver’s paradise. Located 50km from the mainland and a 2 hour boat ride from the Marang Jetty, the island is surrounded by crystal clear waters, pearly white shores, a colorful array of spectacular marine life, a breathtaking sunset, and what could be the world’s most mature coral garden. The park is arguable among the best diving spots in the world where marine life is protected and souvenir hunters are liable for prosecution. This paradise-like island is perfect for swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving, jungle trekking, fishing, boating, and canoeing. Until recently, accommodation has been in the form of chalets, but if you are keen on luxury, an international class hotel had just opened its doors.