Intro4u2u

Switch on any modern projector (beamer) and the keystone correction automatically squares the image on the screen. Modern process instruments incorporate a fair degree of intelligence used to optimise process variable accuracy and reliability, and can even undertake predictive maintenance. But they fail miserably in one critical aspect even when compared with the humble projector. And that is self adjustment and self-healing.

From the modern digital camera that automatically adjusts focus and exposure for maximum reproduction to engine management systems in automobiles, the self adjustment concept has well and truly taken hold.

BMW’s intelligent drive system is a case in point as the car adjusts the gear selection to better suit a person’s driving style. The variable timing of the intake valves and the engine fuel injection are optimised within tolerable limits, improving fuel consumption, and these critical variables even auto-adjust between services.

If the world of process instruments had evolved in similar fashion, self-adjusting flowmeters in which the diameter would vary according to the flowrate to produce the most accurate and reliable flow measurements would have been a reality. Level measuring devices that utilise the time-of-flight principle, such as ultrasonic and radar, would self-adjust according to the properties of the air through which the measurements are made.

A majority of process instrumentation still use the 4-20mA signal transmission (as opposed to digital field bus technology), and therefore every device has to be ranged during the initial commissioning. However, smart sensors and pressure transmitters would self adjust to increase their accuracy within the operating range. And this would be of good benefit to the users.

If for example, a pressure transmitter operates between 0 and 100 bar with an accuracy of 0.01 per cent, one can determine the inaccuracy at any point in the total range. However, if the pressure being measured varies only between 50 and 60 bar, a clever instrument would self adjust and scale itself to operate between 40 and 70 bar. The result would be a far more accurate instrument.

There are other benefits as well. A typical 0 to 100 bar pressure transmitter may be set to alarm if the reading drops below 10 bar or exceeds 90 bars. However, if the process normally operates between 50 and 60 bars, a process malfunction that causes a pressure spike of 70 bars will pass unnoticed. A self adjusting instrument could pick this up right away.

In new plants, this issue is all the more obvious and the ramifications are manifold. In such cases, each new instrument in the plant is calibrated and the measurement range set to improve accuracy. As the process settles down, the optimised bandwidth for every instrument continues to shift.

This requires further calibration and recommissioning of the instruments to maintain optimal accuracy. This is a laborious, time-consuming process and it could take years for the plant to stabilise. But it does not have to be this way. Imagine if the instruments had the ability to store data, analyse it periodically, register the low and high points over a period of time and self adjust to operate in the optimum range.

This will also eliminate the need to shut down plants in order to optimise the instrumentation. The resultant savings in time, human resource and money as well as the impact on product quality and batch consistency would be high.

Let’s consider self-adjusting processes. With the recent acceptance by process industries of field bus technology, both Profibus and Foundation Fieldbus, it is possible to extract more data from the processes than previously. For example, a differential pressure transmitter can provide the dip measurement for level or flow, as well as the process pressure and temperature.

Using this additional information plantwide it should be possible for the control system to process the data and make the necessary process changes, reducing energy costs, saving processing time, without sacrificing quality – why add too much flocculant, only to have to recover it later, why cool pipework only to heat it again for hygienic cleaning (CIP), why keep filling a tank that never empties below half full?

Till now, instruments have been designed around the reactive or planned reactive philosophy. Now there is a technology to move them up to the next level and make them proactive without any major impact on their cost. And after we cross the self-adjusting hurdle, the next issue is self–healing. Car makers are developing tyre systems that can self check and self inflate in the event of minor leaks.

“More Acura” — that’s the company’s promise for the all-new TSX compact sport sedan.

The TSX was launched with modest expectations in 2004 and it has quickly become a surprise hit for Acura, Honda’s luxury division.

While here in the states we have an especially porcine version of the Honda Accord — supersized just for American customers — the rest of the world drives a leaner model which we know as the Acura TSX.
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That fitter, trimmer world model was sitting idle, and so keeping with the sports coaching philosophy of finding ways to get talented players into the game, the company renamed the Honda Accord everyone else gets as the Acura TSX and found plenty of Americans who appreciated the virtues of its svelte size, taut handling, accessible price and frugal fuel economy. Sharp, distinctive styling that strongly evoked the red-hot TL was another plus in a segment overstuffed with generic, forgettable designs.

Underneath, many of the attributes which made the TSX appealing remain intact in the 2009 version. There’s still a 2.4-liter four-cylinder engine driving the front wheels. The standard six-speed manual gearbox snicks through the gears with a lightness and accuracy representing one of many virtues Honda fans appreciate.

And it seems like the company was able to improve the historical lack of tactile feedback from the TSX’s clutch pedal.

Honda engineers have always emphasized lightness of action over visceral connection, but the TSX’s clutch pedal makes a welcome step toward reminding the driver that he is operating a machine and conveying a sense of what that machine is doing. This improvement will be lost on the majority of customers, however, because 92 percent of TSX buyers choose the optional five-speed automatic transmission, according to the company.

But don’t expect an engaging drive once the clutch pedal is released, because the TSX uses electric power steering, or EPS — commonly a recipe for disastrously numb steering and unfortunately that’s the case here.

While it’s far from the worst execution of this technology (the Toyota Corolla has an ironclad grasp on that title), the TSX falls well short of Honda’s own benchmark. With its S2000 sports car the company has demonstrated that it can actually build cars with electric power assist that transmit to the driver a sense of the activities being carried out by the machine under command, and it would be nice to see the new TSX’s steering tuned to a similarly excellent level.

Because it’s a dressed-up version of the global Accord, and because that car has been launched in Europe with Honda’s acclaimed clean diesel engine, the TSX will be Honda’s first U.S.-market diesel. The diesel engine won’t actually arrive until next year, but we already know that Acura has been able to meet U.S. pollution standards without using the expensive exhaust scrubbers that have made other manufacturers’ diesels prohibitively expensive for U.S. consumers.
Image: Interior of the 2009 Acura TSX
Acura
The interior of the 2009 Acura TSX has a solid sound system, but suffers from an excessive use of non-luxury shiny plastic.

The new TSX enjoys the benefit of the ceaseless advancements made in consumer electronics, including a navigation system that now depicts real time traffic and weather data on the screen. Unfortunately, Honda’s BMW envy has led the company to ape the damnable iDrive computer interface employed by its German rival. So rather than the previous easy-to-use touch screen system, the TSX is now saddled with a central control knob that operates its functions.

This contributes to an “even more intuitive interface,” according to chief engineer Hiroyuki Ikegami, demonstrating perhaps the worst sense of intuition since President Bush looked into Vladimir Putin’s soul and spotted a man who could be trusted.

There is also the requisite high-decibel sound system that promises to bundle an entire Sony Records studio and all the label’s performers into the car’s trunk, providing the most authentic music experience possible. OK, not really. But top record producer Elliot Scheiner (just nod and smile, pretending you know who he is, because it doesn’t really matter) lends his name to a super-duper high-clarity audio DVD system that does in fact produce discernibly better music reproduction.

The interior of the TSX suffers from far too much of a particular variety of shiny silver plastic that comprehensively populates cars from Acura, or at least that’s my guess because each new model the company releases is slathered in ever more of the stuff. It started on the inside, flattering the dashboard with a richness that can only be conveyed by, well, shiny plastic.

This plastic looks “technical,” according to Acura executives, apparently unaware that the bits of shiny silver material on authentically technical devices are typically made of aluminum, stainless steel, titanium or the like. Shiny plastic is within the purview of the faux, rather than the authentic.

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Perhaps Honda has discovered something here that other manufacturers have missed. Harley-Davidson designers are forbidden from using chromed plastic on their motorcycles. If it’s shiny and metallic on a Harley, it’s metal. Apple iMacs are encased in aluminum rather than aluminum-colored plastic. There’s no shiny plastic on Harleys or Apples, but maybe that’s because Honda’s purchasing department cornered the market on the substance.

Making bigger a car whose popularity was in part the result of appreciation for its compact size, and delivering technology for technology’s sake — these are two symptoms of the problem that has led to the TSX and other Acuras to becoming loaded with loathsome silver plastic.

Car customers want and appreciate honest virtue and value, not glitz and pork. But most cars out there are getting fatter too so the TSX will still look slim standing beside them, and a new 40 MPG diesel engine will attract its share of customers, even when it’s dressed up in Acura’s plastic.

When first launched, Acura’s TSX was a neat and tidy package. It was a treat for the eyes and fun to drive.

Five years later, its place in Acura’s lineup is more significant and it shows. Beneath the layer of pomp and circumstance associated with the launch here, there’s something else: More purpose; more urgency. Sure, the TSX has been a good seller for Honda’s upscale division, behind the larger TL sedan and MDX sport-ute. However, with the so-called near-premium segment, which includes such brands as Audi A3, BMW 1-series and Lexus IS250, expected to grow at a healthy clip in the next few years, the TSX’s importance to Acura can’t be overstated.

The original 2004-’08 TSX, which was based on the European version of the Honda Accord, elicited positive comments from both purchasers and the media, but its shortcomings, including a tight-fitting cabin and slightly choppy ride, were obvious areas to fix for the 2009 model.

Happily, that’s just what the Acura team has done. The new TSX remains based on the latest Accord, which means the car is now six centimetres longer, 7.5-centimetres wider and the distance between the front and rear wheels has grown by a bit more than three centimetres. This puts the TSX on nearly the same footing as the Accord in terms of width, but it remains somewhat shorter.

That’s an important distinction, since the new TSX now appears similar to the Accord in many respects, but still retains a sportier, tauter attitude, suggesting it can handle twisty roads as well, if not better, than the outgoing model. A wider track (the distance between the left and right wheels) also helps in this regard.

Luggage space closely matches that of the previous model, but the trunk lid has been widened and the load floor lowered for easier access.

The TSX’s bigger size should silence the critics who felt the interior was a bit too cramped. Three adult-sized riders will now fit more comfortably in back, while front-seat passengers shouldn’t have to pass around the breath mints quite so often.

The TSX shape is highlighted by more aggressive sheet metal, with prominently bulging fenders and a more distinctive grille that has been fitted with some major chrome trim. Anonymity is clearly becoming a big no-no these days inside the Honda/Acura design studios.

Anyone hoping the next TSX would would receive a big boost in power might feel disappointed.

The upgraded 2.4-litre four-cylinder is now rated at 201 horsepower (four ponies fewer than last year) and torque maxes out at 172 pound-feet, a modest gain of eight.

As before, the powerplant can be hitched to a six-speed manual transmission or optional five-speed automatic, but the auto box now gets steering-wheel-mounted paddle shifters.

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A hallmark of all Acura models is that they arrive virtually loaded to the roof. That’s certainly true of the TSX, which counts dual-zone climate control, power moonroof, xenon headlamps, seven-speaker audio system, tilt/telescopic steering wheel and heated power-adjustable front seats among its many standard features.

Buyers can add a navigation system, perforated leather seats, plus a few other high-tech gee-gaws, but perhaps the most impressive option is the 10-speaker, 415-watt premium sound system.

Elliott Scheiner, a six-time Grammy award-winning sound-studio engineer who has collaborated with the likes of The Eagles, Steely Dan and Sting, helped specifically design this package for the TSX and the results are nothing short of spectacular.

Elsewhere, TSX remains a carefully crafted blend of goodness and virtue, whether you’re behind the wheel, spectating from the right seat or enjoying the ride from the bleachers.

However, for the driver, this car conveys a feel of comfort and competence at a price that’s in reach of more than just a privileged few.

Complaints are often logged in these pages about how customers in the United States are given short shrift when it comes to models sold elsewhere, primarily in Europe. We whine and moan about the Europeans getting all of the good cars while we get the dregs.

Well, here’s a twist. The 2009 Acura TSX that goes on sale here this month is pretty much the same as the Honda Accord sold in Europe . . . only better! Yep, better, as in more content and a more powerful engine. Take that, you Euros.

Honda engineers in Japan spent more than three years working on the car that makes up a large chunk of U.S. Acura sales–as many as 38,000 cars last year–as it plays a significant role for parent company Honda worldwide (Acura is not a brand in Europe yet). Paying attention to details such as ride, handling, noise, vibration and harshness, not to mention sharper styling, a larger, more comfortable cabin and maybe the best sound system on four wheels, the ‘09 model is a step up from the outgoing model.

That’s not to say the TSX is perfect. While the U.S. model is more potent than the Euro version, the car is not a screaming sports sedan. The 2.4-liter dohc i-VTEC four is a smooth powerplant, making 201 hp and 172 lb-ft of torque, and it easily propels the 3419-pound car. With either a six-speed manual or a five-speed automatic with steering-wheel-mounted paddle shifters, the powertrain is smooth and efficient, delivering 23 mpg in manual mode, 24 mpg in automatic. Still, in the first few minutes behind the wheel of a preproduction model, we felt that more power–specifically, more torque–would have been welcome.

For a car that wants to play in the sporting field with BMW’s 3 Series (and its 230-hp six) and Audi’s A4 (with its optional 3.2-liter four making 255 hp), the TSX is anemic. The 2.4-liter is a fine base engine, but offering more power for customers wanting it would seem natural.

A simple solution would be to add a turbocharger to the fuel-efficient four-cylinder, or maybe the TSX will be one of the models to get Honda/ Acura’s new diesel engine announced a few months ago. Honda officials said no plans are in place for more power but did admit there is room under the hood for either a turbo or a bigger engine, and it would not rule out possible upgrades down the road. Nor are there any plans to offer all-wheel drive, another feature available in some competing models.

One target area for Honda engineers was the ride and handling of the new TSX, and they should be commended. The car has a newly designed double-wishbone front suspension and a new multilink rear suspension with dual-mode dampers. Add to that a new electric power-steering system, and the result is a smooth-riding, crisp-handling car. The steering feel is light at slow speeds and could provide a bit more feedback in fast corners.

The car is 3.1 inches wider and 0.2 inch lower than the car it replaces, and it rides on 225/50R-17 Michelin Pilot all-season tires, so the ‘09 TSX has an aggressive stance. Along with the upgraded suspension is additional roof bracing in the substructure, giving the TSX a solid feel. The suspension ate up road imperfections on our test route, and there was no body roll going through fast, sweeping corners. As we followed another TSX through some twisty bends, the car’s roll stiffness was plainly evident. In addition, it was amazingly quiet on the roads northeast of San Diego.

Honda and Acura have taken lumps in recent years for lackluster styling, and while the TSX does feature some sharper lines and a bolder chrome grille, the styling still lacks any sort of wowzer factor. But if subtle, clean lines are your idea of good styling, the TSX is great.

Inside, the cabin is comfortable and inviting, with leather all around. The interior is 2.5 inches wider at the shoulders, placing passengers 1.5 inches farther apart and giving the feel of a larger car. The two large, round gauges for the speedo-meter and the tachometer, plus smaller ones for temperature and fuel, have floating needles that give a clean, three-dimensional effect, while the center stack is dominated by the same array of knobs and buttons found in the MDX and the RDX for the climate control, entertainment and navigation options. That means more than 25 knobs or buttons, a dizzying array at first glance. In the TSX, the unit is a bit higher up in the stack, and the navigation screen is a bit larger.

Each test car offered up had the technology package, which includes six-disc in-dash CD/DVD audio player, MP3 and WMA playback, AM/FM and XM satellite radio with real-time traffic and a new feature, XM Weather. There are also inputs for portable music players.

Another part of the tech-nology package is fast becoming the gold standard in mobile audio systems: Panasonic ELS Surround Sound. With 415 watts pumping through 10 speakers, it is a concert hall on wheels. ELS founder Elliot Scheiner, a multi-Grammy-award-winning producer, has said that this application in the TSX is the best yet, and our ears couldn’t agree more.

Acura officials said they expect that more than 50 percent of all TSX buyers will opt for the technology package.

The 2009 TSX will come in four basic models: either automatic or manual, with or without the technology package. Last year, Acura sold 38,000 TSXs, and officials hope for sales of 40,000 during the 12 months after release. They would not commit to a price, simply saying that the car will sticker between $29,000 and $35,000, about the same as the outgoing model.

The TSX is a solid, fun car to drive, loaded with technology. Acura bills it as an entry-level premium sports sedan, and that description seems apt. A bit more sport, with some more ponies underhood, would be nice. Few people might be able to distinguish the new car from the old at a glance, but as an overall package–ride, handling, comfort, fuel mileage–the TSX is hard to beat in the category.

They say you shouldn’t bring a knife to a gunfight, and that phrase came to mind when I drove the redesigned 2009 Acura TSX. The TSX, which hits dealerships in April, has its share of good qualities — like a stylish exterior and interior — but it competes in the luxury sport sedan category, which is one of the more crowded segments of the car business. Shoppers there will find the TSX outgunned by competing models in terms of power and handling.

The Look
The TSX’s all-new styling builds on the previous generation’s athletic looks, but the new sedan is 2.4 inches longer and 3 inches wider than before. The TSX’s wide stance, accented by bulging front fenders, is apparent when looking at the sedan head-on.

The face of the car has been updated via new headlights, a new grille that incorporates Acura’s shield design, and an aggressively styled lower bumper. Around back, changes include more substantial rear fender flares that echo the front ones, as well as new taillights. Seventeen-inch alloy wheels with all-season tires are standard. All in all, the TSX is sporty without going overboard.

Ride & Handling
I drove the TSX in and around San Diego, on expressways, city streets and winding mountain roads. Even on the relatively smooth roads that this part of the country is privileged to enjoy, the TSX’s firm suspension tuning communicated small pavement bumps to the cabin and wasn’t especially forgiving on rougher surfaces. The benefit, though, is relatively flat cornering when driving the car quickly through tight turns. Despite this, one thought kept coming to my mind when driving: If the ride is this taut on nearly perfect roads, how is it going to be in places like Chicago (Cars.com’s headquarters), where potholes that could swallow a small dog are commonplace in wintertime, and road quality overall is much worse than in San Diego? We’ll know for sure once we get a TSX to drive in the Midwest, but right now it’s not encouraging.

Even though the TSX’s front-wheel-drive layout doesn’t provide the balance of rear-wheel drive, as is found in the Infiniti G35 and BMW 3 Series, the TSX scraps admirably when powering out of a corner, resisting understeer and doing a decent job on the whole to maintain your desired line.

My biggest issue with the new TSX is its steering feel and feedback. Acura has replaced the hydraulic steering system in the previous car with a new electric power-steering system that doesn’t offer very inspiring oncenter feel; unlike many sport sedans, it doesn’t take much effort to turn the wheel left or right from its straight-ahead position, which means the driver has to pay extra attention to something that doesn’t normally require any thought. By comparison, the G35 has solid oncenter steering feel that requires the driver to put some effort into turning the wheel. The previous TSX had this quality to some degree with its hydraulic system, but it’s essentially gone in the new model.

There’s also a lot of power assistance and not much road feel in the new steering system. That might be great for a large luxury car like Acura’s RL, but it’s not desirable in a sport sedan where a driver wants and expects greater involvement in the driving experience and a sense of what’s happening down at the tires. The 3 Series is still the standard in this slice of the market when it comes to steering performance and feedback, and the TSX’s steering system isn’t in the BMW’s league, though its assist thankfully lessens slightly once you get up to highway speeds.

Going & Stopping
The TSX is powered by a 2.4-liter four-cylinder engine that teams with either a six-speed manual or a five-speed automatic transmission. The engine makes 201 horsepower at 7,000 rpm and 172 pounds-feet of torque at 4,400 rpm (170 pounds-feet at 4,300 rpm with the automatic transmission). That’s a loss of 4 hp but a gain of 8 pounds-feet of torque at 100 fewer rpm (with the manual transmission) when compared to the previous TSX’s four-cylinder. With this engine, the TSX is at the low end of the sport sedan horsepower spectrum — some competitors offer more than 300 hp. Gas mileage is up to 21/30 mpg with the automatic and 20/28 mpg with the manual.

The TSX’s four-cylinder is built to rev. It spins smoothly and emits a nice mechanical sound as you approach its 7,100-rpm redline. You have to let the engine rev high if you want to unlock its performance potential; shifting into too high of a gear to quiet the engine will make its power drop off. That’s what happens to an engine with modest torque that peaks at a relatively high rpm.

Fortunately, the six-speed manual is a joy to shift. The transmission has medium-length throws and moves from gear to gear with impressive slickness, though extra attention is necessary when shifting into sixth. Clutch-pedal effort is rather light, so it shouldn’t tire your leg when creeping through traffic. Within minutes of driving the car I’d gotten accustomed to where engagement occurred.

The five-speed automatic transmission loses the manual-shift mode that was incorporated into the prior TSX’s gear selector, but it gains shift paddles on the back of the steering wheel that perform the same function. The automatic delivers smooth shifts and doesn’t make you wait long when you floor the gas pedal before it kicks down. The steering wheel paddles produce fairly quick shifts, as opposed to the sluggish response that’s all too common with many of these systems.

The TSX’s four-wheel disc brakes have no trouble slowing the car, and the response from the brake pedal is very linear. It hardly requires any effort to apply the brakes; all it takes is a light touch of your foot. Even when braking hard you don’t have to apply much pressure to the pedal.

The Inside
The TSX’s cabin features all-new styling that includes a tiered dashboard, a new gauge cluster and controls, and an integrated control knob like the one in the Acura RL that’s used to control the optional navigation system. The previous TSX’s material quality was already good for its class, and it’s been improved with this redesign.

Front power bucket seats with a memory feature for the driver are standard. With the adjustments offered by the driver’s seat, along with the tilt/telescoping steering column, it’s easy to find a good driving position. The seats themselves, which are covered in standard leather upholstery, are comfortable with their soft cushioning, but they also feature side bolsters that are large enough to keep you in place when trying to squeal the tires through a corner.

The backseat isn’t as comfortable. It’s small like a 3 Series’ backseat, with limited legroom — my knees were pressed up against the back of the front seat — and I only had about an inch of headroom to spare. I am 6-foot-1, though, so small children should find it just fine.

Cargo & Towing
The TSX’s trunk has shrunken slightly and now measures 12.6 cubic feet. Folding down the 60/40-split backseat lets you carry longer items inside the car, and the release levers for the backseat are located along the upper edge of the trunk. With both sections of the rear seat folded, the opening into the cabin isn’t especially wide, but Acura wins points for including this feature as standard equipment; it’s optional on the 3 Series and Mercedes-Benz C-Class.

Safety
Standard features include antilock brakes with electronic brake-force distribution and brake assist, side-impact airbags for the front seats, side curtain airbags, an electronic stability system, and active head restraints for the front seats. A backup camera is included with the optional navigation system.

The TSX also incorporates Acura’s Advanced Compatibility Engineering body technology. ACE is designed to better engage vehicles of different sizes during a crash so the car’s crumple zones are fully utilized.

Independent crash-test results were not available at time of publication, but results will be added here when they are released.

Features
The TSX’s long standard features list includes heated front seats, a leather-wrapped multifunction steering wheel, a power moonroof, dual-zone automatic air conditioning, Bluetooth-based cell phone connectivity, an auxiliary input jack, and a USB port for playing an iPod through the audio system.

Optional features are bundled together in a Technology Package that includes a voice-recognition navigation system that can display traffic and weather information, a more sophisticated air conditioning system that uses navigation technology to factor in the effect of the sun on cabin temperature, and an ELS Surround audio system.

Offered on other Acuras, like the TL and MDX, the 10-speaker ELS Surround system is tuned by longtime sound engineer Elliot Scheiner and includes a six-disc changer that can play DVD-Audio discs as well as regular CDs. Acura says Scheiner’s focus was to faithfully reproduce sound as it’s heard in a recording studio, and the system does indeed produce impressively clear sound that’s easy to appreciate, even if you’re not an audiophile.

TSX in the Market
As an entry-level luxury car, the TSX satisfies reasonably well thanks to its long list of standard features and a refined cabin. When grading it as a sport sedan, however, it doesn’t rate as highly, especially because of its touchy steering response. Competitors like the G35 or a base 328i offer a more engaging driving experience and — if you refrain from checking a bunch of options — are in the same price range as the TSX. That should finalize the decision for most enthusiast buyers, just not in Acura’s favor.

Replacing the Upper & Lower Control Arms.
The E28 typically needs its upper thrust arms and lower controls arms replaced, somewhere around 35,000 to 45,000 miles of use. That’s been the case with mine, which is now getting its third set of replacements at 127,000 miles. You’ll know when it’s time for replacement, because you’ll start getting what feels like wheel/tire imbalance vibrations in the steering wheel and during times of light braking at about 52 MPH. The vibrations can occur at varaious times and appears to be very sensitive to vehicle load, such as with additional people in the car.

At first, I thought I had a potential wheel bolt torque problem, causing a small lateral run out error with the wheels. Tests below showed this really wasn’t the problem.

Lemforder Thrust (upper) Arms with 750i bushings and stock (lower) Control Arms.

Machined bushing face of the thrust arm with its larger bushing.

Various tools used to remove the ball-joint connection… only two are preferred.

Measuring wheel lateral runout with .001″ dial micrometer

Checking the lateral runout of the wheels, to see if they are in spec and what effect does wheel bolt torque have on wheel lateral run out, using both lightly oiled and dry thread bolts, tightened to 74 lbs-ft. BBS does not publish a spec for run out, so I used the “preferred” wheel run out spec most auto mfg.’s use which is “less than 0.020″. My front wheels measured 0.013″ and 0.015″.

Potential excessive wheel bolt torque was thought to be the cause of steering wheel vibration, when it first surfaced about a month ago. However, the difference between the torque actually applied, using lightly oiled and dry wheel bolts did not show any change in wheel lateral runout! Not with the wheels currently being used (E39 BBS style 29) and also with my earlier 19-spoke 390mm E24 TRX wheels, which I also tried this test on. The earlier steering wheel vibration was due to early signs of control arm bushing/ball joint failure?

The wheels were removed and the brake disc run out was checked on both wheels. Balo spec is not to exceed 0.006″ measuring at 1/4″ from the disc edge and the disc tightened to wheel bolt torque spec, or in our case 74lb-ft + or - 7lb-ft. One disc measured a maximum of 0.0015″ and the other measured 0.0025″, well within Balo spec. I’d also add that I tested again with dry and lightly oiled wheel bolts torqued to 74lb-ft and I saw no difference in the brake disc measurement run out figures.

Measuring disc “run out” of Balo front disc. 0.0015″, spec is 0.006″ maximum

Large flat washers are used under the head of the wheel bolts to approximate the contact area the wheel bolt hole pads make with the face of the brake disc hub. The washers also prevent flaring of the bolt hole edge on the face of the brake disc hub, which can rise above the surface of the hub face, creating a wheel run out problem.

PLEASE NOTE - All fastener torque settings are made with Snap-on TORQOMETER
TE series 2% accuracy torque wrenches, calibrated annually by my neighbor and
SnapOn salesman. $39 I-Beam type make believe torque wrenches are junk!

Installation of new front suspension components has been delayed, as the original attachment hardware (nuts and bolts) have been damaged! Some of it is clearly old and used, such as the locknuts and the bolts appear to have been subjected to a worn 6-point socket or 12-point socket on an air impact wrench. The flats are badly damaged and all hardware must be replaced! And I paid money for this level of work! More delay as only a few pieces are available locally, so back to Mr. Haygood for parts.

New hardware has arrived and work can resume. Cost was $34 including the stainless steel heat shield, not originally on this October 1982 build, nor was it installed by my BMW dealer after BMW advised its dealers to do so in 1984! The right Thrust arm bushing is cooked!

New hardware to replace damaged hardware.

Main front suspension component locations - CLICK TO ENLARGE
Special Note…
The three bolts at the base of the strut, which attaches the steering arm, should be locked with a heavy duty “Red” thread locker, such as Loctite 270 (BMW p/n 81229400086). FYI - Loctite 270 has been replaced by Loctite 271. Because a thread lock chemical has been used, the bolts will be difficult to break loose and remove, unless you apply heat to the bolts area, first. I use a Weller SP175 Marksman Mini Iron (175 watt 900 degrees) with very good results. Simply place the soldering iron tip on the bolt head for several minutes.The Bentley manual specifies that Loctite 270 should be used, but makes no mention of using heat to remove bolts locked with Loctite 270, or equivalent! DO NOT USE IMPACT tools to remove these, as you may break off the bolt head! Do not attempt to use a large breaker bar without first applying heat, or you’ll break the bolts.

Also, the heads of these bolts are not very tall, so make sure you use a 6-point socket that is in good shape and fits the bolt lands snugly and isn’t too loose. If the lands are damaged, as mine were, good luck! These are 10.8 hardness, 130,000 psi minimum yield strength bolts, but torque should not exceed 72.2 Nm or 53.2 lbs-ft. With “Red” thread locker applied, bolts should be tightened to 65 Nm (48 lbs-ft). A data sheet from Loctite about the “270″ and “271″ products is available here.

Lastly, several people have suggested that “Red” thread locker need not be used. That is sheer folly and a real danger to you or anyone who operates the vehicle!

steering_arm.jpg
Steering arm bolt locations.

Attempting to confirm control arm bushing problems
While the Bentley manual and others have suggested grabbing the control arms with large water pump plyers and checking for excessive movement of the control arm, this process doesn’t easily identify boarderline bushings, that seem fine when you’re all alone driving the vehicle, but exhibit shimmy under braking or at various speeds when additional people are in the car, sometimes just one additional person, such as was my case. Further, looking at the bushings may show nothing, unless they are in really bad shape, which I didn’t consider mine to be… and I couldn’t see anything wrong with them while on the car.

Still, with all the symptoms, especially the steering shimmy above 50 mph, I figured the vehicle probably really did need its third set of upper and lower control arms, after only 35,000 miles, even though water pump plyer tests and close visual inspection showed nothing apparent with the current arm’s bushings. It was only after I had removed the arms, that I could easily tell that they were trouble.

The primary culperts are the upper thrust arms, with the right one showing heavy wear (and heat stress), the left bushing looking better, but still with very deep major cracks or breaks and bushing separation on both sides, when placed in a large vise and moved as it would move in the vehicle. The bushing wear was there, very easy to see. A further test was to place both the old thrust arm and the new thrust arm with a 750i bushing, side-by-side in the bench vise and move them together to feel the difference. The removed thrust arm was clearly at the end of its service life, with its rather shocking amount of movement and significantly less resistance to movement, which couldn’t be felt while on the car and using the water pump plyers test! Based on my own observations of this, I would say the shimmy at braking, especially with several people in the car, is a very good indicator about probably needing upper thrust arms… and perhaps ball joints, too, as noted below.

In view of the bad condition these thrust arm bushings were found to be, once off the car, I’d suggest that the water pump plyers test is not a good test of bushing condition. It did not show my bushings to be in such a bad state!
New thrust arm with 750i bushing (left) and stock worn out 528e thrust arm (right).

Inspecting and comparing the used lower control arm with a new replacement control arm, placed side-by-side in the bench vice (shown below), showed no detectable differences, other than the old arm bushing feeling a tiny bit less rigid compared to the new arm bushing, while moving them both at the same time. Not very scientific, but the lower arms certainly had less of a difference then the upper thrust arm bushings clearly showed. The cracking visible in the rubber bushing surface is surface cracking with no depth. Not the same as the upper thrust arm cracks or breaks in the rubber bushings which are very deep, perhaps penetrating the full depth of the rubber.

control_arm.jpg
New lower control arm (left) and old lower arm (right)

There was, however, a bad cut in the ball joint boot on this control arm (below) that was not visible while on the car, as it was next to the brake backing plate. It had allowed some of the grease to escape and dirt and water to get in over time and the operation of this ball joint is sloppy and notchy, suggesting bad wear on the joints surfaces.

The right front tie rod also had a sloppy ball joint and mistreated tube and clamps, both were over tightened and one clamp bolt head broke off during my removal. Use of Vise Grips to rotate the tie rod tube, without ever fixing the problem (replacing the rusted and jammed tie rod) shows unacceptable judgement and workmanship on the part of the technician who last worked on this! The left tie rod was only slightly less damaged, but was totally frozen and could not be adjusted (it was not serviced) but both ball joints were sound.

So, while the lower control arm bushing appeared to still be performing, the loss of lubricant and wear to the ball joint and another sloppy ball joint on the right tie rod, certainly required that these be replaced. It probably contributed to the shimmy problem, too, if only in a small way, but was there none the less.

With respect to the issues of damaged attachment hardware, requiring replacement and unacceptable workmanship by people employed by BMW dealers or so called qualified independent servicing shops, I’ll certainly be conducting my own inspection of completed work, in the future, before my vehicle leaves such facilities. I’d suggest others do the same, given the results I’ve seen on other BMW’s I’ve looked at or worked on.

Removed tie rod with sloppy ball joint and badly treated shaft. Frozen, can’t be adjusted!

Assembly
Aside from taking this opportunity to clean up the area, with the suspension components out of the way, don’t forget to chase the threads in the base of the struts, where the steering arms will be reattached using red thread locker.

You may have replacement parts with different attachment configurations, such as below, where one ball joint uses a castle nut and cotter pin to lock the nut, while the other uses a nut with a nylon insert to lock it. You can see the difference in the shafts. Never use a nylon self locking nut on a shaft designed for a castle nut!

Threaded shaft for castle nut (left) shaft for nylon insert locking nut (right)

When replacing parts that use a castle nut and cotter pin attachment, give thought to the position of the cotter pin to permit future work and easy removal and replacement. Below, the left tie rod arm ball joint is attached to the center link with the ball joint cotter pin hole positioned so that the cotter pin can easily be accessed from below, since its head is at the bottom of the assembly. Tapping on the rear edge of the ball joint housing (not on the large cap) with a plastic mallet, will help seat the tapered shaft, so that it won’t rotate while torquing down the shaft nut. Position the other castle nut/cotter pin ball joint ends in the same way, allowing good future access.

You’ll appreciate this little attention to assembly detail, when it comes time for parts renewal… as will the next person who works on it, if you don’t. The white stuff on the ball joint threads is not Lithium… the new ball joints were removed from the tubes, cleaned and lubed with DuPont Krytox grease! Water proof and vastly superior protection.

I’ve had a number of E-mails indicating that trying to find DuPont Krytox grease in a small quantity has been very difficult, if not impossible to find. Indeed, it is difficult to find, but the Loctite product is identical (so I am told by DuPont) and is readily available from major sources, such as R.S. Hughes Co., Inc. in a 3 Oz. tube for less than $10. Let me know if you have a good DuPont source.

Left tie rod attachment to center link next to steering pitman arm ball joint

Parts ready for installation on the car.

I use small box tops to contain the hardware that is going to be installed. You can see that I’ve already attached the lower Control arms to the steering arms (BMW calls them “tie rod levers”, Bentley calls them “steering knuckles”) and have properly torqued the ball joint nut. I’ve found it easier to just install the lower Control arm and not the Thrust arm at this point, as it makes it easier to position the steering arm back on the bottom of the strut. With both arms attached to the steering arm, it gets a bit unwieldy. Besides, the Thrust arm is easy to attach to the steering arm once the steering arm is installed.

As I indicated earlier, the lack of a heat shield on the right side Thrust arm resulted in the bushing being cooked, to the extent that comparing the two Thrust arms mounted side-by-side in a vice, showed the cooked bushing to have much less resistance to movement. Upon close inspection, it appears a heat shield was never mounted at the factory, as there are no marks on the mounting area or the attached flat nuts. It simply was never installed.
Heat shield installed on right side Thrust arm bushing mount.

Heat shield attachment.

If you have an early model E28, I’d certainly check to see if the heat shield is in place, as it may never have been installed, or not replaced during Thrust arm replacement or exhaust down pipe work. It clearly is needed, given what the heat did to my stock Thrust arm bushing. Without a heat shield, would the plastic in the larger 750 bushing start to deform? Become soft or brittle and fail? I only discovered this heat shield, after seeing it in the front axel parts breakdown, while identifying replacement attachment hardware to order from Steve Haygood.

While you’re under the car, you might want to clean off the steering box center index, perhaps adding a bit of white paint to make the index marks much easier to see. The Bentley manual picture of this is confusing, as it looks like the universal joint seam is the reference point, not the collar with the raised mark on it. A few other tips follow…

Convert an old 5/8-inch wrench for swaybar link use, by grinding it down.

Update August 25, 2006 -
Finally finished and all back together, with the bushing bolts torqued down with the specified vehicle weight pre-loading in place. Certainly worth all the effort, to get the steering and front suspension back to very tight and responsive condition, probably even more so than stock was, with the use of 750 bushings in the Thrust arms. Yes, the steering shimmy, braking shimmy and the other associated problems are gone! Let’s hope these 750 bushings last a bit longer.

Finished! View of the right front underside, completed.

150lbs of sand bags in each seat and rear center to preload for alignment. This is CRITICAL!

alignment.jpg
Friend and Master Mech., Roger Davis of VIP Auto setting up for computer alignment.

Final thoughts…
I like the feel of the 750i bushings, a bit stiffer and what sounds perhaps a bit more noisy, but not as noisy as the urethane bushings I once tried, nor as harsh. In fact, several E28 owners, most recently Philo, talking about his E28 M5 said “I have Grunts bushings in there now (third set) and I think I’m going to go with the 750s this time.  The Grunts, or urethane bushings in general, develop a memory and become constantly sloppy. The reason I went to urethane was because I had a bad experience with the 750s.., I had the green plastic inserts crack and fall out which then made the front end plain dangerous!”

Several others have commented to me on their urethane bushings becoming sloppy, too, as well as being more noisy than stock BMW bushings. I hope that these current generation 750i bushings in the E28 arms remain stable and provide good service life.

The bottom line, now with over 500 miles of testing at speed and on west Virginia twisties, is that the overal improvement in my steering and front suspension is quite evident, making the car feel much more precise and controlled. Road irregularities now have little effect and moderate stuff does not require small steering corrections, as was necessary before the work. The car continues to feel stiffer in fast corners, especially with additional people in the car. Several people have suggested that the larger bushings are probably not responsible for the increased roll resistance, but I think they are in error… nothing else changed to explain this performance observation.

Surprising how much precision and performance can drain away over time and we really don’t notice it, until it is renewed back with fresh components, bringing back what BMW intended. It brings a smile to my old face!

And always, special thanks to my wife, Shelley, who supports my desire to do these projects, lends a hand when she can, loves the car and is a great co-pilot during road testing after the work is completed. Over the years she has developed a keen sense about what the car is doing, or not doing. All male wrenchers should be so fortunate.

The information below has been compiled by various people that took the time to document a certain activity regarding a BMW modification or service. The information spans the North American chapters and BMW enthusiasts. If you would like to add to this section - please feel free to Email us.

Feel free to select what your curiosity dictates - Every disclaimer imaginable applies. What worked for the user, may not work for you (YMMV). Please consider all variables when applying what you learn on this WEB page. Not all conditions are the same, and therefore extra thought needs to be applied when trying the below recommendations for the best results. We just hope that this information can help anyone with a similar challenge, and will make your BMW ownership an enjoyable journey.
Rear View mirror upgrade
Brakes

ABS Care - Avoiding Expensive Brake Problems

Brake Fluid

Brake Squeal

Brake Vibration

Break Pad Wear

Cleaning/Conditioning your BMW’s finish

Cleaning Your Radio

Car Care

Engine Cleaning

Leather Conditioning

Rain-X

Cleaning Your Soft-top

Cleaning Stains

Window Improved Visibility

Washing Your BMW

Cleaning Your Tires

Cleaning your BMW Alloy Wheels

Cleaning Bird Droppings

Canned Air - a Must

Paint Chip Repair
General Maintenance

AC-Hose Check

Shock Bushing Jingle

Air Bag Light

Black Boxes

E36 Ball Joint False Alarm

Battery Maintenance

Detailed Battery Maintenance - part I

Detailed Battery Maintenance - part II

Elusive Coolant Loss

Cause of dead Battery

Dust wear on your BMW Motor

Exhaust leak into cabin

Squeeky Fan Bearings

Exhaust Leak and replacement

Flat Tire Basics

Fuel Pump Facts

Fuse Maintenance

Steering Bolt Problems

Guibo Service

Cylinder Head Bolt Failures

Heater Maintenance

Pinhole Heater Hose Leak

Microfilter Replacement

M50/M52 H2O Pump Failure

M50/M52 H2O Pump and Thermostat

Idle FAQ’s

HOT Climate Tips

Key Code and Battery

Lug Bolts and Air Wrenches

BMW Maintenance Manuals

Misc. Maintenance Part I

Misc. Maintenance Part II

Painting your BMW

Power Steering Leak

Oil Plug Leaks

Home Remedies

Intermittent Wiper Switch

Loose Shifter and Shift-kits

Throttle Linkage Adjustments

Bad Timing

Over-Revving your BMW

AC Retrofit

Odometer Repair

Radiator Flushing
General Tips

OBC Code

Pedal Adjustments

AC R12 to R134A Conversion

Dim Rear Lights fix I

Dim Rear Lights fix II

Daytime Running Lights

Repco Metal Pads Install

Loosening your Shock Nut
Modifications

E36 M3 Euro Snorkel

E36 Euro Headlights w/ Angel Eyes

BMW Parts Repair Advice & Technical Maintenance Tips For Do-It-Yourselfers

BMW parts repairs are expensive and they seem to be particularly high for import cars. That’s why auto repair advice for do-it-yourselfers is critical to help reduce BMW repair bills.

Here are some auto repair topics you may want to review to help you keep your BMW repair costs down.
BMW Brake Parts Repairs:

Brake Repairs Needed? Don’t Take Chances with Your Brakes - Repair Them Now!
BMW Cooling System Repairs:

It’s Easy to Prevent Breakdowns BEFORE They Happen
BMW Fuel System Repairs:

BMW Fuel Pumps & Fuel Injection Repairs
BMW Noise Troubleshooting:

Troubleshooting Noises - Is Your BMW Trying to Tell You Something?
BMW Engine Repairs:

Engine Knock? Low Oil Pressure? How To Diagnose Needed Repairs
BMW Parts Shopping Tips:

Use These Tips When Shopping for BMW Parts & Save Big $ on Auto Repairs
BMW Tuneup & Maintenance Tips:

Tuneup & Auto Maintenance Tips To Lengthen Your BMW’s Life
BMW Wiper Blade Repairs:

Replacing BMW Wiper Blades Regularly Saves Lives & Windshields
BMW Electrical System Repairs:

Understanding Your BMW’s Electrical System
BMW Oxygen Sensor Repairs:

Oxygen Sensors Are a Critical Key to Passing Emissions
BMW VIN Shopping Tips:

Know Your VIN & Get Exactly The RIGHT BMW Repair Parts Every Time
BMW Monthly Maintenance:

Perform Monthly Maintenance on Your BMW & Keep Repair Costs Way Down

Want more BMW repair advice & technical tips?
Have an BMW repair tip you’d like to share with do-it-yourselfers?
Check out these auto repair links:

Repair & Car Care Tips Archives
Miscellaneous Auto Links
Auto Repair Services Links
Technical Assistance Links

Don’t Forget:

Repair articles are added regularly.
Come back often to check for new maintenance topics.

These repair tips are designed only as a starting point.
Please seek the assistance of a professional BMW mechanic
for all repair problems beyond your capabilities.

How to check the engine oil

Place your car at the level spot. Stop the engine. Wait for a while to let the engine oil to pour down to the oil pan. Pull the engine oil dipstick. If you don’t know where is the engine oil dipstick, check your owner’s manual, usually it has a bright handle saying “engine oil”.

Wipe it off with a clean rag or tissue. Then insert it back all the way down into its place.

Now, pull the dipstick again and check the oil level. Normally it should be at “FULL” mark. For example, here you can see that it’s a bit lower. It’s not a big problem yet, but it’s better to top it up. Check the oil condition: If it’s way too black, it’s definitely time to change it. If it’s slightly-brown, it’s O.K. If it’s dark-brown, but still transparent, it’s admissible but it’s better to change it soon.
If it’s white (coffee with milk color) it means the engine coolant mixes with the engine oil because of some internal engine problem, for example, blown head gasket - have your car inspected.

How to top up the engine oil:
It would be better to add the same type and brand of the engine oil as you already have in the engine. Add a little amount of the oil as it’s shown in the image. Wait for a minute to let the oil to pour down. Check the oil level again with the dipstick. If it’s still low, add some more. But don’t overfill it. Don’t forget to install the dipstick back and close the oil filler cap when you finished.
How to check automatic transmission fluid.

Place your car at a level surface and engage the parking brake. Start the engine. Set transmission shifter in “P” (Park) position, and let the engine idle (on some cars this procedure may be different, check the owners’ manual for details). Pull the transmission dipstick. Check your owners manual to find where transmission dipstick is located in your car.

Wipe it off with a clean lint free rag. Then insert it back carefully all the way down into its place.

Pull again and check the fluid level. If the engine is cold, it should be within “COLD” marks. If the car was driven and is fully warmed up, the level should be at the upper end of the “HOT” mark. If it’s just a little bit lower I wouldn’t worry about it. Otherwise I’d top it up. Check the fluid condition also: If it’s too black and dirty with burnt smell - your transmission is not going to last. Normally it should be clean and transparent, as in the image. The new fluid comes red. Over the time it becomes brownish. If it is brown, check your owner’s manual, may be it’s time to change it. Some manufacturers require to change the transmission fluid at 30,000 or 50,000 miles others specify that you never have to change it - check what’s your car owner’s manual says.

How to top up the transmission fluid:
It’s very important to use only specified transmission fluid - check your owners manual or simply visit your local dealer, they alway have proper transmission fluid in stock. Incorrect transmission fluid can even destroy the transmission. Add a small amount of the fluid through the dipstick pipe as shown in the image. Wait for a few minutes - let the fluid to flow down. Recheck the level again. Do not overfill, it also may cause problems with your transmission.

Engine coolant

Low coolant level will cause engine overheating, which may cause serious damage to the engine.

How to check the engine coolant level:
The coolant level should be between “LOW” and “FULL” marks in the coolant overflow tank as in the picture. If it’s lower, top it up. If there is no coolant in overflow tank or you have to top it up quite often, have your car inspected in the garage, possibly there is a coolant leak.
Never open the radiator or coolant overflow tank when the engine is hot!

When engine temperature is reduced (few minutes after the engine has been turned off) , simply add a coolant into the overflow tank to “FULL” mark.
Tires

Check the tire pressure regularly - at least once a month. If you don’t have tire pressure gauge it’s really worth to buy it. You can find recommended tire pressure in the owner’s manual or on the tire pressure placard. The maximum pressure listed on tires is NOT the proper pressure! Refer to the owner’s manual
Rotate tires at every second oil change - it will insure all tires wear equally. Feel vibration at cruising speed? - have your tires balanced. There is a safe limit of the tread wear. If the tire is worn below this limit it’s unsafe to drive. Refer to the result of mechanical inspection. Uneven tire wear indicates alignment problem.
Improper alignment causes increased tire and suspension components wear and poor handling. In worst case improper alignment may throw your car into a skid, especially on a wet road. If a car pulls aside, wanders or feels unstable on the road, have the alignment checked. Properly done alignment will make your car’s ride a lot more enjoyable.
CV joint boots
CV joint boot is OK

Most of modern vehicles are Front-Wheel-Drive, and they all have CV-joints (Constant Velocity joint) used to transfer the engine torque to the front wheels. The CV-joint is greased inside and sealed by a rubber boot that unfortunately, tend to break sometimes. If the CV-joint boot breaks, the grease comes out, the dirt and water comes in and the whole axle unit may become inoperative in a short period of time. CV-joint located on the internal side of each of the front wheels. You can check CV-joint boots visually looking inside the front wheel arch from the front of the car with the wheel turned outside. The boot should be dry. If it’s broken you will see a grease splashed all over the area. If the boot is broken, it needs to be replaced. If not replaced in time, whole axle shaft will need to be replaced which will cost you few hundred bucks more than just replacing the boot.
Broken CV joint boot
Taking care of small concerns in time may save you a lot more

As soon as you feel there is something wrong with your car like any kind of irregular noise, vibration, shimmer, or you note some leak or any warning light comes on while driving or anything that seems to be irregular - have your car inspected at a dealer or a garage as soon as you can - it might be unsafe to drive. It’s definitely better to check any small problem before it will cause something serious.
Regular mechanical inspection

For your safety, I recommend to have your car inspected regularly, at least once a year, by a mechanic. I mean not just visual inspection by one of the fast lube places, but a mechanic that can lift your car and check major components such as brakes, suspension, etc., while having your tires rotated, for example. This is because many components (e.g ball joints), can not be inspected visually.

Dr Salman Shah, Advisor to the Prime Minister on Finance and Revenue on Friday hinted towards an increase in petroleum prices in near future and said that if the current trend in oil prices continues than there would be pressure on us by year-end.

He was responding to a question regarding the historic rise in oil prices in the international market where the commodity is being traded at $82 per barrel against its previous highest price of $65 per barrel in the international market.

After presiding over the 3rd meeting of the Task Force on Public Private Partnerships at Ministry of Finance, the Advisor said that the current level of oil prices is dangerous for global economy as well as for Pakistan and hoped that the current level which he termed as historic would come down.

“Pakistan’s economy is able to absorb the current oil price shock at present but definitely it would have its implications on our economy. We would review the situation in next two to three weeks and would examine its impact on overall economy and budget”, he added.

Dr Shah said that at present the government is able to continue maintaining and subsidising the existing the petroleum prices due to budget allocations for this purpose. If the current trend continues than we would be looking at slashing the Petroleum Development Surcharge (PDS) or Petroleum Development Levy (PDL) to absorb the shock in near future. However, if the oil prices continue to be at the existing level or even more higher than there would be pressure on us to review the situation by the year-end, he maintained.

The federal government in the budget for current fiscal year 2007-08 has allocated Rs 15 billion to subsidise the petroleum products’ prices and to save the public from adverse impact of high oil prices. However, it would not be easy for the government to continue to subsidise the petroleum products’ prices beyond two to three months if current oil prices continue in the time to come.

Experts are of the opinion that the government would not increase petroleum products’ prices despite the increase in oil prices in the international market due to political gains it is aiming at during presidential elections scheduled for October 6, 2007 and general elections to be held later during the year or during the first quarter of the next calendar year. But the government would not be in a position to continue subsidising the prices of petroleum products for the full fiscal year; otherwise, it would increase the budget deficit.

According to foreign media reports, oil prices were hovering around $82 a barrel on Thursday as sinking US crude inventories and the threat of a storm gathering near Florida increased worries of a winter supply crunch in the world’s top consumer. Oil has traded above $80 for the past week but OPEC officials and oil analysts say the current high price is unsustainable. US light crude edged up 35 cents to $82.27 a barrel after a record-high of $82.51 on Wednesday, the sixth straight session to hit a record. London Brent crude fell 33 cents to $78.14.

Oil has risen by a third this year; driven by worries of fuel shortages during the Northern Hemisphere winter, supply risks in countries ranging from Mexico to Iran and flows of money into oil and out of poorly performing equity markets.

While global oil prices climbed record high this week pushing the benchmark Indian basket to the year’s high of $76.13 a barrel, the troubled UPA coalition at the Centre abandoned thoughts of raising fuel prices and withdrawing the subsidy on cooking gas for the non-poor.

The Indian basket comprises Oman-Dubai sour grade and Brent dated sweet crude in a 60:40 ratio.

It is the government-owned oil companies that will bear the brunt of Rs 5.75 a litre loss on sale of diesel, Rs 3.35 on petrol and Rs 15.47 on kerosene and Rs 174.75 on every cylinder of LPG.

The petroleum ministry had earlier this month, through a status report meant for the Prime Minister and Cabinet, drawn the government’s attention to domestic oil marketing companies losing heavily because of the growing mismatch between global and domestic fuel prices. However, petroleum minister Murli Deora has ruled out any hike in domestic fuel prices.

A senior government functionary said the government is struggling with the difficult task of political management over the Indo-US nuclear deal and the Ram Setu row.

“It has little political capital to expend on taking the hard and potentially unpopular decisions of increasing fuel prices.”

More than the price hike, it is the lack of political will to issue oil bonds to the companies for compensating losses is what is disturbing their investment plans.

“Normally, the administrative ministry pushes the case of petroleum companies for a hike when it sees they are going in red but the response of petroleum ministry is timid though it is well known now that oil marketing companies Indian Oil Corporation, Hindustan Petroleum and Bharat Petroleum may close the second quarter with losses,” said a senior official.

Government sources said the petroleum ministry has been told that hike in consumer prices of petroleum products is not a viable option in the current political situation facing the government but at the same time no alternative mechanism has been worked out.

Parliament’s monsoon session ended without the government getting approval for oil bonds to compensate for around Rs 50,400 crore annualised losses.

“Fuel price hike is a difficult political task at most times. It is more so now,” said a minister engaged with the current trouble-shooting efforts with the government’s Left allies on the nuclear issue.

Decisions such as hiking the prices of petrol and diesel and cutting subsidies on cooking gas would require consultations with not only the Left parties, which are bound to see red, but also within the UPA coalition. UPA constituents including RJD and DMK are not in favour of any increase in fuel prices now.

“With inflation staying below 4 per cent for the latest four weeks, there was perhaps a window of opportunity to pass on to the consumer a little bit of the burden of the global oil price increase,” said a finance ministry official, “but clearly the government is politically not in a position to bite the bullet. It has no appetite for opening another front (of confrontation within the ruling coalition),” he said.