Intro4u2u

BMW Parts Repair Advice & Technical Maintenance Tips For Do-It-Yourselfers

BMW parts repairs are expensive and they seem to be particularly high for import cars. That’s why auto repair advice for do-it-yourselfers is critical to help reduce BMW repair bills.

Here are some auto repair topics you may want to review to help you keep your BMW repair costs down.
BMW Brake Parts Repairs:

Brake Repairs Needed? Don’t Take Chances with Your Brakes – Repair Them Now!
BMW Cooling System Repairs:

It’s Easy to Prevent Breakdowns BEFORE They Happen
BMW Fuel System Repairs:

BMW Fuel Pumps & Fuel Injection Repairs
BMW Noise Troubleshooting:

Troubleshooting Noises – Is Your BMW Trying to Tell You Something?
BMW Engine Repairs:

Engine Knock? Low Oil Pressure? How To Diagnose Needed Repairs
BMW Parts Shopping Tips:

Use These Tips When Shopping for BMW Parts & Save Big $ on Auto Repairs
BMW Tuneup & Maintenance Tips:

Tuneup & Auto Maintenance Tips To Lengthen Your BMW’s Life
BMW Wiper Blade Repairs:

Replacing BMW Wiper Blades Regularly Saves Lives & Windshields
BMW Electrical System Repairs:

Understanding Your BMW’s Electrical System
BMW Oxygen Sensor Repairs:

Oxygen Sensors Are a Critical Key to Passing Emissions
BMW VIN Shopping Tips:

Know Your VIN & Get Exactly The RIGHT BMW Repair Parts Every Time
BMW Monthly Maintenance:

Perform Monthly Maintenance on Your BMW & Keep Repair Costs Way Down

Want more BMW repair advice & technical tips?
Have an BMW repair tip you’d like to share with do-it-yourselfers?
Check out these auto repair links:

Repair & Car Care Tips Archives
Miscellaneous Auto Links
Auto Repair Services Links
Technical Assistance Links

Don’t Forget:

Repair articles are added regularly.
Come back often to check for new maintenance topics.

These repair tips are designed only as a starting point.
Please seek the assistance of a professional BMW mechanic
for all repair problems beyond your capabilities.

How to check the engine oil

Place your car at the level spot. Stop the engine. Wait for a while to let the engine oil to pour down to the oil pan. Pull the engine oil dipstick. If you don’t know where is the engine oil dipstick, check your owner’s manual, usually it has a bright handle saying “engine oil”.

Wipe it off with a clean rag or tissue. Then insert it back all the way down into its place.

Now, pull the dipstick again and check the oil level. Normally it should be at “FULL” mark. For example, here you can see that it’s a bit lower. It’s not a big problem yet, but it’s better to top it up. Check the oil condition: If it’s way too black, it’s definitely time to change it. If it’s slightly-brown, it’s O.K. If it’s dark-brown, but still transparent, it’s admissible but it’s better to change it soon.
If it’s white (coffee with milk color) it means the engine coolant mixes with the engine oil because of some internal engine problem, for example, blown head gasket – have your car inspected.

How to top up the engine oil:
It would be better to add the same type and brand of the engine oil as you already have in the engine. Add a little amount of the oil as it’s shown in the image. Wait for a minute to let the oil to pour down. Check the oil level again with the dipstick. If it’s still low, add some more. But don’t overfill it. Don’t forget to install the dipstick back and close the oil filler cap when you finished.
How to check automatic transmission fluid.

Place your car at a level surface and engage the parking brake. Start the engine. Set transmission shifter in “P” (Park) position, and let the engine idle (on some cars this procedure may be different, check the owners’ manual for details). Pull the transmission dipstick. Check your owners manual to find where transmission dipstick is located in your car.

Wipe it off with a clean lint free rag. Then insert it back carefully all the way down into its place.

Pull again and check the fluid level. If the engine is cold, it should be within “COLD” marks. If the car was driven and is fully warmed up, the level should be at the upper end of the “HOT” mark. If it’s just a little bit lower I wouldn’t worry about it. Otherwise I’d top it up. Check the fluid condition also: If it’s too black and dirty with burnt smell – your transmission is not going to last. Normally it should be clean and transparent, as in the image. The new fluid comes red. Over the time it becomes brownish. If it is brown, check your owner’s manual, may be it’s time to change it. Some manufacturers require to change the transmission fluid at 30,000 or 50,000 miles others specify that you never have to change it – check what’s your car owner’s manual says.

How to top up the transmission fluid:
It’s very important to use only specified transmission fluid – check your owners manual or simply visit your local dealer, they alway have proper transmission fluid in stock. Incorrect transmission fluid can even destroy the transmission. Add a small amount of the fluid through the dipstick pipe as shown in the image. Wait for a few minutes – let the fluid to flow down. Recheck the level again. Do not overfill, it also may cause problems with your transmission.

Engine coolant

Low coolant level will cause engine overheating, which may cause serious damage to the engine.

How to check the engine coolant level:
The coolant level should be between “LOW” and “FULL” marks in the coolant overflow tank as in the picture. If it’s lower, top it up. If there is no coolant in overflow tank or you have to top it up quite often, have your car inspected in the garage, possibly there is a coolant leak.
Never open the radiator or coolant overflow tank when the engine is hot!

When engine temperature is reduced (few minutes after the engine has been turned off) , simply add a coolant into the overflow tank to “FULL” mark.
Tires

Check the tire pressure regularly – at least once a month. If you don’t have tire pressure gauge it’s really worth to buy it. You can find recommended tire pressure in the owner’s manual or on the tire pressure placard. The maximum pressure listed on tires is NOT the proper pressure! Refer to the owner’s manual
Rotate tires at every second oil change – it will insure all tires wear equally. Feel vibration at cruising speed? – have your tires balanced. There is a safe limit of the tread wear. If the tire is worn below this limit it’s unsafe to drive. Refer to the result of mechanical inspection. Uneven tire wear indicates alignment problem.
Improper alignment causes increased tire and suspension components wear and poor handling. In worst case improper alignment may throw your car into a skid, especially on a wet road. If a car pulls aside, wanders or feels unstable on the road, have the alignment checked. Properly done alignment will make your car’s ride a lot more enjoyable.
CV joint boots
CV joint boot is OK

Most of modern vehicles are Front-Wheel-Drive, and they all have CV-joints (Constant Velocity joint) used to transfer the engine torque to the front wheels. The CV-joint is greased inside and sealed by a rubber boot that unfortunately, tend to break sometimes. If the CV-joint boot breaks, the grease comes out, the dirt and water comes in and the whole axle unit may become inoperative in a short period of time. CV-joint located on the internal side of each of the front wheels. You can check CV-joint boots visually looking inside the front wheel arch from the front of the car with the wheel turned outside. The boot should be dry. If it’s broken you will see a grease splashed all over the area. If the boot is broken, it needs to be replaced. If not replaced in time, whole axle shaft will need to be replaced which will cost you few hundred bucks more than just replacing the boot.
Broken CV joint boot
Taking care of small concerns in time may save you a lot more

As soon as you feel there is something wrong with your car like any kind of irregular noise, vibration, shimmer, or you note some leak or any warning light comes on while driving or anything that seems to be irregular – have your car inspected at a dealer or a garage as soon as you can – it might be unsafe to drive. It’s definitely better to check any small problem before it will cause something serious.
Regular mechanical inspection

For your safety, I recommend to have your car inspected regularly, at least once a year, by a mechanic. I mean not just visual inspection by one of the fast lube places, but a mechanic that can lift your car and check major components such as brakes, suspension, etc., while having your tires rotated, for example. This is because many components (e.g ball joints), can not be inspected visually.

Dr Salman Shah, Advisor to the Prime Minister on Finance and Revenue on Friday hinted towards an increase in petroleum prices in near future and said that if the current trend in oil prices continues than there would be pressure on us by year-end.

He was responding to a question regarding the historic rise in oil prices in the international market where the commodity is being traded at $82 per barrel against its previous highest price of $65 per barrel in the international market.

After presiding over the 3rd meeting of the Task Force on Public Private Partnerships at Ministry of Finance, the Advisor said that the current level of oil prices is dangerous for global economy as well as for Pakistan and hoped that the current level which he termed as historic would come down.

“Pakistan’s economy is able to absorb the current oil price shock at present but definitely it would have its implications on our economy. We would review the situation in next two to three weeks and would examine its impact on overall economy and budget”, he added.

Dr Shah said that at present the government is able to continue maintaining and subsidising the existing the petroleum prices due to budget allocations for this purpose. If the current trend continues than we would be looking at slashing the Petroleum Development Surcharge (PDS) or Petroleum Development Levy (PDL) to absorb the shock in near future. However, if the oil prices continue to be at the existing level or even more higher than there would be pressure on us to review the situation by the year-end, he maintained.

The federal government in the budget for current fiscal year 2007-08 has allocated Rs 15 billion to subsidise the petroleum products’ prices and to save the public from adverse impact of high oil prices. However, it would not be easy for the government to continue to subsidise the petroleum products’ prices beyond two to three months if current oil prices continue in the time to come.

Experts are of the opinion that the government would not increase petroleum products’ prices despite the increase in oil prices in the international market due to political gains it is aiming at during presidential elections scheduled for October 6, 2007 and general elections to be held later during the year or during the first quarter of the next calendar year. But the government would not be in a position to continue subsidising the prices of petroleum products for the full fiscal year; otherwise, it would increase the budget deficit.

According to foreign media reports, oil prices were hovering around $82 a barrel on Thursday as sinking US crude inventories and the threat of a storm gathering near Florida increased worries of a winter supply crunch in the world’s top consumer. Oil has traded above $80 for the past week but OPEC officials and oil analysts say the current high price is unsustainable. US light crude edged up 35 cents to $82.27 a barrel after a record-high of $82.51 on Wednesday, the sixth straight session to hit a record. London Brent crude fell 33 cents to $78.14.

Oil has risen by a third this year; driven by worries of fuel shortages during the Northern Hemisphere winter, supply risks in countries ranging from Mexico to Iran and flows of money into oil and out of poorly performing equity markets.

While global oil prices climbed record high this week pushing the benchmark Indian basket to the year’s high of $76.13 a barrel, the troubled UPA coalition at the Centre abandoned thoughts of raising fuel prices and withdrawing the subsidy on cooking gas for the non-poor.

The Indian basket comprises Oman-Dubai sour grade and Brent dated sweet crude in a 60:40 ratio.

It is the government-owned oil companies that will bear the brunt of Rs 5.75 a litre loss on sale of diesel, Rs 3.35 on petrol and Rs 15.47 on kerosene and Rs 174.75 on every cylinder of LPG.

The petroleum ministry had earlier this month, through a status report meant for the Prime Minister and Cabinet, drawn the government’s attention to domestic oil marketing companies losing heavily because of the growing mismatch between global and domestic fuel prices. However, petroleum minister Murli Deora has ruled out any hike in domestic fuel prices.

A senior government functionary said the government is struggling with the difficult task of political management over the Indo-US nuclear deal and the Ram Setu row.

“It has little political capital to expend on taking the hard and potentially unpopular decisions of increasing fuel prices.”

More than the price hike, it is the lack of political will to issue oil bonds to the companies for compensating losses is what is disturbing their investment plans.

“Normally, the administrative ministry pushes the case of petroleum companies for a hike when it sees they are going in red but the response of petroleum ministry is timid though it is well known now that oil marketing companies Indian Oil Corporation, Hindustan Petroleum and Bharat Petroleum may close the second quarter with losses,” said a senior official.

Government sources said the petroleum ministry has been told that hike in consumer prices of petroleum products is not a viable option in the current political situation facing the government but at the same time no alternative mechanism has been worked out.

Parliament’s monsoon session ended without the government getting approval for oil bonds to compensate for around Rs 50,400 crore annualised losses.

“Fuel price hike is a difficult political task at most times. It is more so now,” said a minister engaged with the current trouble-shooting efforts with the government’s Left allies on the nuclear issue.

Decisions such as hiking the prices of petrol and diesel and cutting subsidies on cooking gas would require consultations with not only the Left parties, which are bound to see red, but also within the UPA coalition. UPA constituents including RJD and DMK are not in favour of any increase in fuel prices now.

“With inflation staying below 4 per cent for the latest four weeks, there was perhaps a window of opportunity to pass on to the consumer a little bit of the burden of the global oil price increase,” said a finance ministry official, “but clearly the government is politically not in a position to bite the bullet. It has no appetite for opening another front (of confrontation within the ruling coalition),” he said.

As the old adage goes, free advice is worth what you pay for it. People educate themselves and train to carry out expert modifications, and when they have become competent and recognized in this arena, tend to charge for their services either as tuners, crew chiefs, or build consultants. If someone offers you their advice on how to create the perfect fuel map, properly set up your suspension, or take out a stain on your hood with a Brillo pad and a jar of mayonnaise, they may know what they are talking about, or they may be certifiably insane — but one thing remains clear: They will not take liability for any harm you cause to your car or yourself. This point may seem fairly obvious, but too many people rely on free advice because it is free and available everywhere. Your mailman, your mom’s friend, and your local priest probably all have opinions on what would look/work great on your car. Are you going to listen to them? The funny thing is, if you
are getting your input online, you probably are listening to them because they are the people putting in their two cents on the Internet forums. As a rule, people who are paid to know what they are talking about, with rare exceptions, do not give free advice on message boards. Or if they do, they have a commercial interest or other agenda prompting the “help” that they are offering. Just like a doctor, lawyer, or other professional, experts in the automotive arena will tell you that there is no free lunch. If you value the advice of the town people of Anytown, U.S.A., you will find it for free in great abundance. If you are after the leading industry experts’ opinions on how to carry out a modification plan for your car, expect to pay for it.

Perhaps you have ignored all of the preceding advice in this chapter, or life has just thrown you a curveball and you now have sextuplets on the way. If the project simply cannot, will not, or should not be completed — an often painful realization for car enthusiasts — then the next question becomes how to bow out gracefully and cut your losses. A close friend of mine had a Toyota MR2 with nearly $70,000 (that’s not a typo) invested in mods. After a botched rebuild, the motor was blowing massive amounts of oil past the piston rings. His options were as follows:
1. Place ad for sale: “$70,000 MR2 for sale. A bit smoky. $15,000 obo.” However, this was unpalatable given that the car would amount to a more than $50,000 loss. You can expect to lose money on modified cars, but no sane person wants to lose $50,000 on one. You might question the sanity of anyone willing to put $50,000 into an MR2 in the first place, but there had to be a sane way to preserve as much of his investment as possible.
2. Spend $5,000 to $10,000 making it right. In his case, this would have been either a competent rebuild, or importing a Japanese spec rear clip and swapping over the core mechanical parts. Of course, if someone is tapped out of time, money, patience, or all three, this is not much help. Further, there was no assurance that he would not be throwing good money after bad. If he could not find a competent shop to do the rebuild in his area (it was a bit of a crap shoot, given his
lack of success with three prior rebuilds) or if the used parts came in from Japan needing rebuilding, he would be even worse off than he already was. When the stakes have been raised, one can’t blame him for being averse to taking the risk.
3. Part the car out and start all over when the time is right. I’m happy to report that this option worked out well. My friend was able to recoup over $35,000 by selling off parts, a tremendous amount more than the car would have sold for with an engine on its last legs. He still lost a fair bit of money, granted, but less than he might otherwise have
334 Part IX: The Part of Tens TLFeBOOK with the first two scenarios. This was no easy decision for him, and I spent
many long nights listening to him moan about

controller), 288–290
air compressors, 77
air conditioning, 272
air dams, 106–107
air flow meter (AFM), 293–295
air intake
camshafts, 198–200
CFM (cubic feet per minute), 190
drop-in performance air filters, 191
factory, 189
forced induction, 231
intake manifold, 197–198
modifications, 190–191
open-element air intake, 191–196
superchargers, 251
throttle bodies, 196–198
turbo, 190
turbochargers, 251
air pollution, 12
Air Resources Board (ARB), 12
airbags, 272
air/fuel controllers, 286–288
air/fuel ratio, 272
air-to-air intercoolers, 241, 257–259
air-to-water intercoolers, 241, 257, 259–260
all season performance tires, 69, 71
American brands, 319
Antilock Brake System (ABS)
ASR (Anti-Slip Regulation), 151
Engine Control Unit (ECU), 273
TLFeBOOK
Antilock Brake System (ABS) (continued)
how it works, 151–152
sensors, 151
TRC (Traction Control), 151
anti-theft system, 273
A’PEXi
air/fuel controllers, 286–288
Power FC standalone ECU, 306–308
RSM (Rev Speed Meter), 297
S-ITC (Super Ignition Timing
Controller), 290
appearance
graphics, 98–101
sleeper appearance, 201
wheels, 79, 84–87
applying graphics, 100–101
ARB (Air Resources Board), 12
Asian brands. See also Acura; Honda;
Mitsubishi; Nissan
Mazda, 317
Subaru, 318
Toyota, 315–316
ASR (Anti-Slip Regulation), 151
Audi enthusiast Web sites, 319
Auterra OBDII scanners, 268–269
auto glass, washing, 121–122
AutoDry Carwash (Mr. Clean), 115
Autopia Web site, 321
Autospeed Web site, 320
AutoTap OBDII scanners, 268
Autronic standalone ECUs, 310
auxiliary injector controller (AIC), 288–290
axle-back exhaust, 210–211
axles, 225–226
Babel Fish Web site, 321–322
batteries
dry-cell, 184
relocation kit, 184
weight, 184
beam suspension, 180
bhp (brake horsepower), 178
billet calipers, 142
black boxes
air/fuel controllers, 286–288
auxiliary injector controllers (AICs),
288–290
boost controller, 293
defined, 285
fuel cut defencers, 295–296
ignition timing controllers (ITCs), 290–291
manifold air pressure sensor (MAP),
293–294
speed cut defencers, 295–297
turbo boost controllers, 291–292
bleed valve boost controller, 292
BMV (Bureau of Motor Vehicles), 12
BMW enthusiast Web sites, 318
boost
benefits, 230
cooling systems, 250
cylinder pressure, 235, 251
defined, 229
downsides, 230
drivability tradeoffs, 254–255
drivetrains, 234
Engine Control Unit (ECU), 272
forced induction, 231
fuel systems, 249–250
high altitudes, 230
higher revs, 230
ignition timing, 250
nitrous oxide, 247–249
spark plugs, 250–251
standalone ECUs, 305
superchargers, 243–247
turbochargers, 231–243
boost controller, 35, 243, 291–293
boost gauge (turbochargers), 240
braces, 50–51
brake boosters, 150–151
brake fluid
changing, 131
checking, 135
DOT numbers, 131–132
dry boiling point, 132–134
glycol-based, 131–134
maintenance, 135
TLFeBOOK
performance, 131–132
replacing, 136
silicone-based, 132, 134–135
viscosity, 132
wet boiling point, 132, 134
brake horsepower (bhp), 178
brake lines, 152–154
brake pads
costs, 138
dust, 138
heat range, 137–138
noise, 138
outgassing, 138
pad wear, 137
rotor wear, 137
brake proportioning valve, 35
brakes
air pockets, 136
Antilock Brake System (ABS), 151–152, 273
calipers, 141–143
cooling system, 143–145
disc brakes, 147–148
drum brakes, 146–147
ducts, 143–145
dust shields, 146
importance of, 129
master cylinder, 148–149
Porsche carbon ceramic brakes
(PCCB), 179
proportioning valves, 150
rotors, 138–141, 178–179
upgrades, 130–131
ventilation, 143–145
braking
threshold braking, 152
weight distribution, 175
brands (cars). See American brands; Asian
brands; European brands
brands (tires), 60
breakaway characteristics
active safety, 33
tires, 65
budgeting
costs, 328–329
time, 327–328, 333
bumper winglets, 108
bumpers, 106–107
Bureau of Motor Vehicles (BMV), 12
bushings, 170–171
cages
bolt-in, 46
costs, 45
design options, 42–45
harness bars, 45–46
installation, 46–47
materials, 39–40
monkey bars, 40
padding, 41, 44
precautions, 45
welded, 46–47
calipers
billet, 142
cast, 142
factory calipers, 143
forged, 142
heat, 142
race calipers, 143
upgrades, 141
Camaro, 319
camber plates, 34
camshafts
function, 198–199
installation, 199
modifications, 199–200
reground, 200
turbochargers, 256–257
CAN (Controller Area Network), 297
canards, 108
car mods. See modifications
car washes, 113
carbon fiber material, 110–111
carbon/Kevlar material, 111
CarChip (Driveright), 268–269
cast calipers, 142
cast wheels, 89
catalytic converters, 200, 202
cat-back exhaust, 211–212
TLFeBOOK
cavitation, 237
centering weight, 180
centrifugal superchargers, 246–247
certification of race seats, 50
CFM (cubic feet per minute), 190
chassis reinforcement
foam, 169–170
seam welding, 170
strut braces, 168–169
checking brake fluid, 135
chip swapping
OBDI scanners, 266
OBDII scanners, 267
Chip Torque Xede, 300–301
clay bar, 117
cleaning
engine, 126
floors, 123–124
interior, 123, 125
seats, 124–125
weather seals, 125
clutches
cover, 221
diaphragm spring, 221
disc, 221–222
flywheels, 224–225
four-puck unsprung clutch, 223
friction material, 221–222
front-engine car, 221–222
illustrations, 222
modifications, 221
multi-disc clutch, 223–224
pressure plate, 221–222
rear-engine car, 221
single-disc clutch, 224
sprung hubs, 222–223
twin clutch, 223–224
coilovers, 34, 165–167
combustion
mixture control, 285–286
theory, defined, 187–189
competition harnesses. See harnesses
compound of tires, 66–67
compression ratio, 236
compression test, 218
compressor
bypass valves, 242
turbochargers, 232
computer equipment. See Engine Control
Unit (ECU)
contact patches on tires, 66
Controller Area Network (CAN), 297
controllers
air/fuel, 286–288
auxiliary injector, 288–290
boost, 291–293
ignition timing, 290–291
convertible fabric tops, washing, 123
coolant jackets, 237
coolant temperature gauge, 220
coolants
distilled water, 238
Evans NPG+ Waterless Coolant, 238
Red Line Water Wetter, 238
cooling systems
brakes, 143–145
intercoolers, 241, 257–260
mineral deposits, 238
pressure drop, 258
radiator caps, 238
radiator size, 238
superchargers, 250
turbochargers, 238, 250
water injection, 260–261
“coolness” factor of modifications, 18–19
corner balancing, 165
cornering ability and weight
distribution, 175
Corvette enthusiast Web sites, 319
costs
air/fuel controllers, 286
auxiliary injector controllers (AICs), 288
braces, 50
brake pads, 138
brake-ducting hose, 145
budgeting, 328–329
carbon fiber materials, 111
coilovers, 166–167
e-Manage (GReddy), 300
flywheels, 225
TLFeBOOK
foam chassis reinforcement, 170
harness bars, 46
limited slip differential (LSD), 173
multi-disc clutch, 223
OBDII scanners, 268
race seats, 50
roll bars, 42
roll cages, 45
shocks, 163
springs, 164
standalone ECUs, 303–304
strut braces, 169
sway bars, 167
turbocharger kits, 240
TurboXS UTEC (User Tunable Engine
Computer), 302
vein pressure converter (VPC), 295
cross-drilled rotors, 138–139
cruise control, 272
cubic feet per minute (CFM), 190
cutting custom graphics, 100
Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV), 12
Department of Transportation (DOT)
federal regulations, 10
tread wear ratings, 67
detailing sprays, 120
diagnostics (on-board)
emissions, 265
EPROM swaps, 282–283
OBDI scanners, 266–267
OBDII (on-board diagnostics II), 15
OBDII scanners, 267–269
reflashes, 283
Society of Automotive Engineers
(SAE), 265
uses, 266
differentials
limited slip differential (LSD), 171–174
open differential, 171–172
diffusers, 105–106
Digimoto OBDII scanners, 268
disc brakes, 147–148
distilled water (in coolants), 238
distribution of weight
acceleration, 175
braking, 175
centering weight, 180
cornering ability, 175
performance, 175
rotating mass, 178–179
static weight, 181–183
unsprung weight, 180–181
DMV (Department of Motor
Vehicles), 12
DOT (Department of Transportation)
federal regulations, 10
tread wear ratings, 67
down-pipe (exhausts), 200
Drifting.com Web site, 323–324
drive-by-wire systems, 273
driveline mods, 220
Driveright CarChip, 268–269
driveshafts, 178
drivetrains, 234
driving schools, 34
drop-in performance air filters, 191
drum brakes, 146–147
dry set-up nitrous system, 247
dry sump oiling system, 237
dry-cell batteries, 184
dual-purpose tires, 69–71, 74–75
dubs, 90–92
ducts (brakes), 143–145
dust shields, 146
Dyno evaluation, 219
ECU (Engine Control Unit)
air conditioning, 272
air flow meter (AFM), 294–295
airbags, 272
air/fuel ratio, 272
Antilock Braking System (ABS), 273
anti-theft system, 273
TLFeBOOK
ECU (Engine Control Unit) (continued)
black boxes, 285
boost, 272
clearing the memory, 274
closed interface, 275
cruise control, 272
defined, 271
detection of tuned ECUs, 282
drive-by-wire systems, 273
emissions, 265
EPROM swaps, 276, 279, 281–283
factory, 242, 272
fuel cut defencer, 296
functions, 272–273
ignition timing, 272
input variables, 272
learning parameters, 283
Mitsubishi Evo VIII ECU upgrades,
283–284
modifications, 273–274, 279
open interface, 276
performance, 273
piggybacks, 277, 299–302
reaction to bolt-on parts, 274
reflashes, 276, 279, 281, 283–284
reprogramming, 279–282
speed cut defencer, 296
standalone, 277–278, 303–310
throttle-by-wire systems, 273
traction control, 273
WORKS P2 Boost Tube, 284
Electromotive TEC II and TEC III
standalone ECUs, 310
electronic boost controller, 292–293
e-Manage (GReddy), 290, 300
emissions
ARB (Air Resources Board), 12
catalytic converters, 202
Engine Control Unit (ECU), 265
exhaust systems, 204
on-board diagnostics (OBD), 265
standalone ECUs, 304
EMT (extended mobility tires), 77–78
end links, 34, 168
engine
adapting OBDI engines to newer cars, 270
adapting OBDII engines to older cars, 270
cleaning, 126
clutch, 221–224
compression ratio, 236
compression test, 218
coolant temperature gauge, 220
driveline mods, 220
Dyno evaluation, 219
fuel system, 220
interference engine, 199
leak down test, 218–219
maintenance, 218
oil pressure gauge, 220
oil temperature gauge, 220
on-board diagnostics (OBD), 265–269
superchargers, 251–252
testing, 218–219
turbochargers, 243, 251–252
engine boost
benefits, 230
cooling systems, 250
cylinder pressure, 235, 251
defined, 229
downsides, 230
drivability tradeoffs, 254–255
drivetrains, 234
Engine Control Unit (ECU), 272
forced induction, 231
fuel systems, 249–250
high altitudes, 230
higher revs, 230
ignition timing, 250
nitrous oxide, 247–249
spark plugs, 250–251
standalone ECUs, 305
superchargers, 243–247
turbochargers, 231–243
Engine Control Unit (ECU)
air conditioning, 272
air flow meter (AFM), 294–295
airbags, 272
air/fuel ratio, 272
342 Car Hacks & Mods For Dummies
TLFeBOOK
Antilock Braking System (ABS), 273
anti-theft system, 273
black boxes, 285
boost, 272
clearing the memory, 274
closed interface, 275
cruise control, 272
defined, 271
detection of tuned ECUs, 282
drive-by-wire systems, 273
emissions, 265
EPROM swaps, 276, 279, 281–283
factory, 242, 272
fuel cut defencer, 296
functions, 272–273
ignition timing, 272
input variables, 272
learning parameters, 283
Mitsubishi Evo VIII ECU upgrades,
283–284
modifications, 273–274, 279
open interface, 276
performance, 273
piggybacks, 277, 299–302
reaction to bolt-on parts, 274
reflashes, 276, 279, 281, 283–284
reprogramming, 279–282
speed cut defencer, 296
standalone, 277–278, 303–310
throttle-by-wire systems, 273
traction control, 273
WORKS P2 Boost Tube, 284
engine mounts, 226–227
enthusiast clubs, 19
enthusiast message boards and forums,
314–315
EPA (Environmental Protection Agency)
ARB (Air Resources Board), 12
federal regulations, 10
EPROM swaps
best situations for use, 281
defined, 276
OBDI, 282–283
reflashes, 279
ERL/Aquamist MF2 auxiliary injector
controller, 289–290
European brands
Audi, 319
BMW, 318
Lotus Elise, 318
Volkswagen, 319
Evans NPG+ Waterless Coolant, 238
exhaust systems
axle-back exhaust, 210–211
building on your own, 203
catalytic converter, 200, 202
cat-back exhaust, 211–212
down-pipe, 200
emissions, 204
exhaust manifold, 200, 204–208
flex pipes, 209
header-back exhaust, 212–213
illustrations, 201–202
jigs, 203
joints, 208
leaks, 207–208
modifications, 208–210
muffler section, 200–201
patterns, 203
resonators, 201
rubber vibration isolation mounts,
209–210
sensors, 202
superchargers, 251
tailpipe, 201
tubing, 208
turbo-back exhaust, 212–213
turbochargers, 202–203, 233, 251
expectation management, 16–18
extended mobility tires (EMT), 77–78
• F •
fabric tops, washing, 123
factory parts
air intake, 189
Engine Control Unit (ECU), 242, 272
engine mounts, 227
Index 343
TLFeBOOK
factory parts (continued)
fuel map, 220
fuel system, 220
reselling, 28
seats, 47
selling, 332–333
turbochargers, 234
understressed, 217
failed/incomplete car, selling, 333–334
FCD (fuel cut defencer), 295–296
federal regulations
DOT (Department of
Transportation), 10
EPA (Environmental Protection
Agency), 10
gray market cars, 10–11
Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, 13–15
warranties, 13–15
fender flares, 108
fender liners, 85
fender lip, 85
fiberglass, 109–110
fire extinguishers, 40
Firebird, 319
fixed-displacement superchargers, 244–246
floating rotors, 140
floors, cleaning, 123–124
flywheel
costs, 225
defined, 224
failure, 225
materials, 224
resurfacing, 225
weight, 178, 224
foam chassis reinforcement, 169–170
forced induction of air, 231
forged calipers, 142
forged wheels
construction, 88–89
costs, 89
failure characteristics, 89
materials, 88
weight, 178
forums, 314–315
four-puck unsprung clutch, 223
free advice, 331
front bumpers, 106–107
front-wheel drive, 159
fuel cut defencer (FCD), 295–296
fuel injectors, 240
fuel pumps, 240
fuel systems
factory, 220
superchargers, 249–250
turbochargers, 249–250
full coilovers, 167
full standalone ECUs
AEM EMS, 306, 308
anti-lag, 306
autotune feature, 305
Autronic, 310
boost, 305
clock speed, 305
compatibility with stock sensors, 303–304
costs, 303–304
datalogging, 305
defined, 277–278
distributorless ignition coils, 305
Electromotive TEC II and TEC III, 310
emissions, 304
flat shift, 306
Haltech E6X, 309
installation, 308
knock control, 305
launch control, 306
MegaSquirt, 310
Motec, 309
number of cylinders, 304
outputs, 305
plug-and-play harness, 304, 306
Power FC, 306–308
premapped software, 304
resolution, 305
traction control, 306
tuners, 305
wideband oxygen sensor, 305
344 Car Hacks & Mods For Dummies
TLFeBOOK
• G •
gauges (engine)
coolant temperature, 220
oil pressure, 220
oil temperature, 220
superchargers, 252
turbochargers, 252
glass packs, 201
glass, washing, 121–122
glazes and polishes, 117
Google Web site, 321–322
graphics, 98–101
Grassroots Motorsports Web site, 322
gray market cars, 10–11
GReddy
e-Manage, 290, 300
Rebic IV, 289
grounding kits, 214–215
• H •
hacking Honda or Acura Engine Control
Units (ECUs), 280
Hallman controller, 292
Haltech E6X standalone ECU, 309
hand polishing, 118
handling
absolute grip, 159
front-wheel drive, 159
oversteer, 158–159
rear-wheel drive, 160
suspension, 161
traction control, 174
understeer, 157–159
harness bars, 45–46
harnesses
active safety, 51
cam lock design, 53–55
installation, 54–55
latch-and-link design, 53–54
passive safety, 51
replacing, 56
straps, 51–53
head gasket failure, 235
header-back exhaust, 212–213
heat shields, 146
heatsoak, 257
Heim joint, 171
high speed rotary buffer, 118
high-flow catalytic converters, 213
HKS
air/fuel controllers, 286–288
auxiliary injector controllers (AICs), 289
Speed Limit Defencer (SLD), 296–297
VPC (vein pressure converter), 295
hollowed-out catalytic converters, 213
Honda
ECU hacks, 280
enthusiast Web sites, 316–317
horsepower
bhp (brake horsepower), 178
whp (wheel horsepower), 178
How Stuff Works Web site, 320–321
hybrid boost controllers, 292
hybrid turbos, 233
• I •
ignition timing controller (ITC), 290–291
ignitions
amplifiers, 215–216
Engine Control Unit (ECU), 272
grounding kits, 214–215
modifications, 213–214
spark plugs, 215–216
superchargers, 250
turbochargers, 250
illegal modifications, 329
independent suspension, 180
installation
camshafts, 199
graphics, 100–101
harnesses, 54–55
race seats, 50
roll bars, 46–47
roll cages, 46–47
standalone ECUs, 308
Index 345
TLFeBOOK
intake manifold, 197–198
intake of air
camshafts, 198–200
CFM (cubic feet per minute), 190
drop-in performance air filters, 191
factory, 189
forced induction, 231
intake manifold, 197–198
modifications, 190–191
open-element air intake, 191–196
superchargers, 251
throttle bodies, 196–198
turbo, 190
turbochargers, 251
integrated piggybacks
Chip Torque Xede, 300–301
defined, 277
functionality, 299
GReddy e-Manage, 300
TurboXS UTEC (User Tunable Engine
Computer), 301–302
wiring, 299
intercoolers, 241, 257–260
interference engine, 199
interior detailing, 123–125
internal cooling vanes, 140
Internet resources
Acura enthusiasts, 316–317
Audi enthusiasts, 319
Autopia Web site, 321
Autospeed Web site, 320
Babel Fish Web site, 321–322
BMW enthusiasts, 318
Camaro enthusiasts, 319
Corvette enthusiasts, 319
Drifting.com Web site, 323–324
enthusiast message boards and forums,
314–315
Firebird enthusiasts, 319
Google Web site, 321–322
Grassroots Motorsports Web site, 322
Honda enthusiasts, 316–317
How Stuff Works Web site, 320–321
Lotus Elise enthusiasts, 318
Mazda enthusiasts, 317
Mitsibishi enthusiasts, 317–318
Mustang enthusiasts, 319
National Hot Rod Association (NHRA)
Web site, 323
Nissan enthusiasts, 318
SCCA (Sports Car Club of America)
Web site, 322–323
Subaru enthusiasts, 318
Taka Kaira Web site, 324
Toyota enthusiasts, 316
Volkswagen enthusiasts, 319
ITC (ignition timing controller), 290–291
• J •
jigs (exhaust system), 203
• K •
Kanji stickers, 99
Kevlar, 111
kits
battery relocation, 184
grounding, 214–215
turbochargers, 239–240
water injection, 260–261
• L •
lag time, 231
laws
DOT (Department of Transportation), 10
EPA (Environmental Protection
Agency), 10
federal, 10–11
gray market cars, 10–11
local ordinances, 12
local regulations, 11–12
Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, 13–15
passive safety, 38–39
private roads, 12
warranties, 13–15
leak down test, 218–219
346 Car Hacks & Mods For Dummies
TLFeBOOK
leaks in the exhaust system, 207–208
leaned-out mixture, 296
limited slip differential (LSD), 171–174
local ordinances, 12
local regulations, 11–12
Lotus Elise British sports car
enthusiast Web site, 318
performance, 176
lower arm braces, 169
LSD (limited slip differential), 171–174
lug nuts, 179
• M •
machine polishing, 118
MAF (mass airflow sensor), 293–294
Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, 13–15
maintenance
brake fluid, 135
engine, 218
tires, 120
trim, 122–123
wheels, 120
managing expectations, 16–18
manifold air pressure sensor (MAP),
293–294
manufacturer notes, 15
mass airflow sensor (MAF), 293–294
master cylinder (brakes), 148–149
materials
brake lines, 153–154
canards, 108
carbon fiber, 110–111
carbon/Kevlar, 111
engine mounts, 227
exhaust manifold, 206–207
fiberglass, 109–110
flywheels, 224–225
polyurethane, 112
roll bars, 39–40
roll cages, 39–40
spark plugs, 216
splitters, 108
wheels, 88–89
Mazda enthusiast Web sites, 317
MegaSquirt standalone ECUs, 310
message boards, 314–315
Mitsubishi
enthusiast Web sites, 317–318
Evo VIII ECU upgrades, 283–284
3000GT VR-4, 176
mixture control in combustion process,
285–286
modifications
active safety, 34–36
air intake, 190–191
camshafts, 199–200
choosing a car to modify, 21–23
clutches, 221
compromises, 24–25
contingency plans, 26–27
defining goals/scope, 23–24
delays, 27
driveline mods, 220
Engine Control Unit (ECU), 273–274, 279
exhaust systems, 208–210
exit strategies, 26
guidelines, 97–98
ignitions, 213–214
illegal, 329
knowing when to stop, 331–332
resale value, 25, 28, 330–331
trends, 95–96
warranties, 330
modular wheels, 89–90
monkey bars, 40
Monster Garage television series, 19
Motec standalone ECUs, 309
motor vehicle code, 11–12
mountain bike front shock absorbers, 227
Mr. Clean AutoDry Carwash, 115
MSD ignition timing controller (ITC), 291
mufflers
muffler section (exhausts), 200–201
turbo, 202
multi-disc clutch, 223–224
Mustang, 319
myths about hacking and modding, 9
Index 347
TLFeBOOK
• N •
National Hot Rod Association
(NHRA), 15, 323
Nissan
enthusiast Web sites, 318
Skyline GT-R, 10
nitrous oxide, 247–249
• O •
OBD (on-board diagnostics). See on-board
diagnostics (OBD)
oil coolers, 236–237
oil pressure gauge, 220
oil temperature gauge, 220
oiling systems, 237
on-board diagnostics (OBD)
emissions, 265
EPROM swaps, 282–283
OBDI scanners, 266–267
OBDII (on-board diagnostics II), 15
OBDII scanners, 267–269
reflashes, 283
Society of Automotive Engineers
(SAE), 265
uses, 266
open differential, 171–172
open-element air intake, 191–196
outgassing, 138
over-engineering of U.S. automobiles,
19–20
oversize rotors, 141
oversteer, 158–159
• P •
padding
roll bars, 41
roll cages, 41, 44
pads (brakes)
costs, 138
dust, 138
heat range, 137–138
noise, 138
outgassing, 138
pad wear, 137
rotor wear, 137
paint
detailing sprays, 120
maintenance tips, 116–117
polishing, 117–118
polymer sealants, 119
protecting, 118–119
waxes, 119
parts (aftermarket)
axle-back exhaust, 210–211
axles, 226
cat-back exhaust, 211–212
engine mounts, 227
exhaust manifold, 204–205
header-back exhaust, 212–213
reselling, 28
selling, 332–333
SEMA (Specialty Equipment Market
Association), 13, 325
Taka Kaira Web site, 324
turbo-back exhaust, 212–213
parts (factory)
air intake, 189
Engine Control Unit (ECU), 242, 272
engine mounts, 227
fuel map, 220
fuel systems, 220
reselling, 28
seats, 47
selling, 332–333
turbochargers, 234
understressed, 217
passive safety
defined, 31, 37–38
harness bars, 45–46
harnesses, 51
regulations, 38–39
roll bars, 39–42, 46–47
roll cages, 39–47
348 Car Hacks & Mods For Dummies
TLFeBOOK
patterns (exhaust system), 203
PCCB (Porsche carbon ceramic
brakes), 179
performance
brake fluid, 132
Engine Control Unit (ECU), 273
factory seats, 47
tires, 65–68
weight distribution, 175
wheels, 79, 84–85, 87–88
performance driving schools, 34
piggyback controllers. See single-purpose
black boxes
piggybacks
Chip Torque Xede, 300–301
defined, 277
functionality, 299
GReddy e-Manage, 300
TurboXS UTEC (User Tunable Engine
Computer), 301–302
wiring, 299
plastic windows, washing, 122
platforms, 19–20
polishing your car
hand polishing, 118
machine polishing, 118
polishes and glazes, 117
polymer sealants, 119
polyurethane, 112
Porsche carbon ceramic brakes
(PCCB), 179
Porsche 959, 10
power. See also boost
air intake, 189–200
axles, 225–226
combustion theory, 187–189
driveline mods, 220
engine mounts, 226–227
exhaust system, 200–213
fuel system, 220
ignition, 213–216
Power FC standalone ECU, 306, 308
pressure drop, 258
pressure monitoring systems, 76–77
private roads and regulations, 12
proportioning valves (brakes), 150
protecting paint, 118
• R •
race seats
braces, 50–51
certification, 50
costs, 50
design, 48–49
installation, 50
performance, 49
sliders, 50
race tires
flat-spot, 72
grooved, 72
heat cycles, 72
performance limits, 72
public roads, 73
shaved, 72
slick, 72–73
temperature, 72
Racelogic traction control system, 174
radial tires, 61
radiator caps, 238
random orbit polisher, 118
rear diffusers, 105–106
rear spoilers, 103–104
rear-wheel drive, 160
Rebic IV (GReddy), 289
reducing weight
centering weight, 180
performance payoff, 175
relocating weight, 184
rotating weight, 178–179
static weight, 181–183
step-by-step directions, 176–177
unsprung weight, 180–181
reflashes
best situations for use, 281
EPROM swaps, 279
OBDII, 283
tuners, 283–284
Index 349
TLFeBOOK
regulations
federal, 10–11
Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, 13–15
passive safety, 38–39
private roads, 12
state and local, 11–12
warranties, 13–15
relief valve boost controller, 292
replacing
brake fluid, 136
harnesses, 56
shocks, 163
tires, 64
reprogramming an Engine Control Unit
(ECU), 279–282
resale value
effect of modifications, 25, 28, 330–331
stock parts, 28
reselling parts, 28
resonators, 201
Rev Speed Meter (RSM), 297
roll bars
bolt-in, 46
costs, 42
design options, 41–42
harness bars, 45–46
installation, 46–47
materials, 39–40
padding, 41
style bars, 40, 42
welded, 46–47
roll cages
bolt-in, 46
costs, 45
design options, 42–45
harness bars, 45–46
installation, 46–47
materials, 39–40
monkey bars, 40
padding, 41, 44
precautions, 45
welded, 46–47
roots superchargers, 245–246
Rose joint, 171
rotating mass, 178
rotors
cross-drilled, 138–139
cryogenic treatments, 141
floating, 140
internal cooling vanes, 140–141
oversize, 141
slotted, 139–140
vented, 140–141
weight, 178–179
RSM (Rev Speed Meter), 297
run-flat tires, 76–78
• S •
SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers), 265
safety
active safety, 31–36
factory seats, 47
harnesses, 51
passive safety, 31, 37–47
SCCA (Sports Car Club of America),
15, 322–323
seam welding, 170
seats
braces, 50
cleaning, 124–125
factory seats, 47
race seats, 48–50
selling
failed/incomplete car, 333–334
parts, 332–333
SEMA (Specialty Equipment Market
Association), 13, 325
semi-solid forged wheels, 90
sensors
ABS (Antilock Brake System), 151
air flow meter (AFM), 293–295
exhaust system, 202
manifold air pressure sensor (MAP),
293–294
mass airflow sensor (MAF), 293–294
standalone ECUs, 303–304
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS), 296
350 Car Hacks & Mods For Dummies
TLFeBOOK
shock absorbers, 227
shocks, 34, 162–163
single-disc clutch, 224
single-purpose black boxes
air/fuel controllers, 286–288
auxiliary injector controllers (AICs),
288–290
boost controller, 293
defined, 285
fuel cut defencer, 295–296
ignition timing controllers (ITCs), 290–291
manifold air pressure sensor (MAP),
293–294
speed cut defencer, 295–297
turbo boost controllers, 291–292
S-ITC (Super Ignition Timing
Controller), 290
Skip Barber performance driving school, 34
SLD (Speed Limit Defencer), 296–297
sleeper appearance, 201
sleeve coilovers, 166
sliders (race seats), 50
slotted rotors, 139–140
snow tires, 64, 69, 71
Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), 265
sound system for turbochargers, 242
spare tires, 76
spark plugs, 215–216, 250–251
Specialty Equipment Market Association
(SEMA), 13, 325
speed cut defencer, 295–297
Speed Limit Defencer (SLD), 296–297
spherical rod ends, 171
spinners, 90–92
splitters, 107–108
spoilers, 103–104
Sports Car Club of America (SCCA),
15, 322–323
springs, 34, 163–165
standalone ECUs
AEM EMS, 306, 308
anti-lag, 306
autotune feature, 305
Autronic, 310
boost, 305
clock speed, 305
compatibility with stock sensors, 303–304
costs, 303–304
datalogging, 305
defined, 277–278
distributorless ignition coils, 305
Electromotive TEC II and TEC III, 310
emissions, 304
flat shift, 306
Haltech E6X, 309
installation, 308
knock control, 305
launch control, 306
MegaSquirt, 310
Motec, 309
number of cylinders, 304
outputs, 305
plug-and-play harness, 304, 306
Power FC, 306–308
premapped software, 304
resolution, 305
traction control, 306
tuners, 305
wideband oxygen sensor, 305
state regulations
emissions, 12
local ordinances, 12
motor vehicle code, 11–12
static weight, 181–183
stiffening engine mounts, 227
stiffening the chassis
foam, 169–170
seam welding, 170
strut braces, 168–169
stock parts, resale value, 28
street tires, 69–72
strut braces, 168–169
struts, 162
style bars, 40, 42
Subaru, 318
summer high performance tires, 69–71
Super Autobacs automotive
parts chain, 324
Index 351
TLFeBOOK
Super Ignition Timing Controller
(S-ITC), 290
superchargers
air intake, 251
centrifugal, 246–247
comparison with turbochargers, 248
cooling systems, 250
drivability tradeoffs, 254–255
engine reinforcement, 251
exhaust systems, 251
fixed-displacement, 244–246
fuel systems, 249–250
gauges, 252
high altitudes, 230
how they work, 243
ignition timing, 250
spark plugs, 250–251
suspension
beam suspension, 180
bushings, 170–171
coilovers, 165–167
corner balancing, 165
end links, 34, 168
handling, 161
Heim joints, 171
independent suspension, 180
shocks, 162–163
spherical rod ends, 171
springs, 163–165
struts, 162
sway bars, 34, 167–168
swapping chips
OBDI scanners, 266
OBDII scanners, 267
sway bars, 34, 167–168
• T •
tailpipe, 201
Taka Kaira Web site, 324
testing the engine, 218–219
threshold braking, 152
throttle bodies (air intake), 196–198
throttle-by-wire systems, 273
time for modifications, budgeting,
327–328, 333
tire dressings, 120–121
tires
absolute grip, 159
air compressors, 77
air pressure, 65
all season performance, 69, 71
aspect ratio, 61
brands, 60
breakaway characteristics, 65
choosing which tires to buy, 64–65
compound, 66–67
contact patches, 66
dual purpose, 69–71, 74–75
extended mobility tires (EMT), 77–78
factors to considering when buying, 63
forces on, 66
load rating, 62–63
maintenance, 120
models, 60–61
penny test, 59–60
performance, 65–68
pressure monitoring, 76–77
race tires, 72–73
radial, 61
reading the sidewall information, 60–61
replacing, 64
run-flat, 76–78
series, 60
sidewall height, 68
sidewall stiffness, 68
signs of wear, 64
spares, 76
speed rating, 61–62
street tires, 69–72
summer high performance, 69–71
tire repair can, 77
touring, 69
touring tires, 71
tread depth, 59
tread pattern, 67–68
352 Car Hacks & Mods For Dummies
TLFeBOOK
tread wear bars, 59
tread wear ratings, 67
ultra-high performance, 69–71
Uniform Tire Quality Grade (UTQG), 67
wear bar test, 59
weight, 179
width, 61
winter/snow, 64, 69, 71
torque-sensing differential, 174
touring tires, 69, 71
tow services for lowered cars, 163
tower braces, 169
Toyota, 315–316
traction control
Antilock Brake System (ABS), 151
Engine Control Unit (ECU), 273
Racelogic system, 174
standalone ECUs, 306
tread pattern on tires, 67–68
trends, 95–96
trim
chromed metal trim, 122
chromed plastic trim, 122
maintenance, 122–123
painted trim, 122
unpainted plastic trim, 123
tuners
air/fuel controllers, 286
auxiliary injector controllers (AICs),
289–290
reflashes, 283–284
standalone ECUs, 305
turbochargers, 256
turbo boost controller, 291–293
turbo-back exhaust, 212–213
turbochargers
air intake, 190, 251
boost controller, 243
boost gauge, 240
camshafts, 256–257
comparison with superchargers, 248
compression ratio, 236
compressor, 232
compressor bypass valves, 242
coolant jackets, 237
coolant lines, 240
cooling systems, 238, 250
costs, 240
cylinder pressure, 236
defined, 231
drivability tradeoffs, 254–255
durability, 234
engine reinforcement, 243, 251
exhaust downpipe, 240
exhaust system, 202–203, 233, 251
factory, 234
fuel injectors, 240
fuel pumps, 240
fuel systems, 249–250
gauges, 252
head gasket failure, 235
heatsoak, 257
high altitudes, 230
how they work, 232
hybrid turbos, 233
ignition timing, 250
illustrations, 232–233
intercoolers, 241, 257, 259–260
kits, 239–240
lag time, 231
manifold or adaptor plate, 240
mufflers, 202
oil coolers, 236–237
oil lines, 240
sound system, 242
spark plugs, 250–251
tuning, 256
turbine, 232
wastegate, 239–240
water injection, 260–261
water jackets, 237
TurboXS
Dual Stage boost controller, 292
UTEC (User Tunable Engine Computer),
301–302
twin clutch, 223–224
twin-screw superchargers, 244–245
Index 353
TLFeBOOK
• U •
Uberdata freeware (for cracking a ECU),
280
ultra-high performance tires, 69–71
understeer, 157–159
understressed parts, 217
Uniform Tire Quality Grade (UTQG), 67
unsprung weight, 180–181
UTEC (User Tunable Engine Computer)
(TurboXS), 301–302
• V •
vehicle code, 11–12
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS), 296
vein pressure converter (VPC), 295
vented rotors, 140–141
ventilation (brakes), 143–145
venturi, 105–106
Volkswagen enthusiast Web sites, 319
• W •
warranties
event participation, 15
Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, 13–15
modifications, 330
SEMA (Specialty Equipment Market
Association), 13
washing your car
best weather conditions, 114
car washes, 113
convertible fabric tops, 123
glass, 121–122
under the hood, 126
Mr. Clean AutoDry Carwash, 115
plastic windows, 122
step-by-step directions, 114–115
supplies, 114
tire dressings, 120–121
tires, 120–121
trim, 122–123
wheels, 120
wastegates (turbochargers)
external, 239–240
internal, 239
water injection, 260–261
water jackets, 237
Water Wetter (Red Line), 238
waterless coolant, 238
waxes, 119
weather seals, cleaning, 125
Web sites
Acura enthusiasts, 316–317
Audi enthusiasts, 319
Autopia, 321
Autospeed, 320
Babel Fish, 321–322
BMW enthusiasts, 318
Camaro enthusiasts, 319
Corvette enthusiasts, 319
Drifting.com, 323–324
enthusiast message boards and forums,
314–315
Firebird enthusiasts, 319
Google, 321–322
Grassroots Motorsports, 322
Honda enthusiasts, 316–317
How Stuff Works, 320–321
Lotus Elise enthusiasts, 318
Mazda enthusiasts, 317
Mitsubishi enthusiasts, 317–318
Mustang enthusiasts, 319
National Hot Rod Association
(NHRA), 323
Nissan enthusiasts, 318
SCCA (Sports Car Club of America),
322–323
Subaru enthusiasts, 318
Taka Kaira, 324
Toyota enthusiasts, 316
Volkswagen enthusiasts, 319
weight distribution
acceleration, 175
braking, 175
centering weight, 180
cornering ability, 175
354 Car Hacks & Mods For Dummies
TLFeBOOK
performance, 175
rotating mass, 178–179
static weight, 181–183
unsprung weight, 180–181
wet set-up nitrous system, 247
wet sump oiling system, 237
wheel horsepower (whp), 178
wheel spacers, 85–87
wheels
appearance, 79, 84–87
backspacing, 82–83
basic dimensions, 80–81
bolt pattern, 80
cast wheels, 89
dubs, 90–92
fender liners, 85
fender lip, 85
fit, 79
forged, 88–89, 178
hub centering, 81
maintenance, 120
materials, 88–89
modular, 89–90
offset, 82
performance, 79, 84–85, 87–88
position, 82–83
rim diameter, 81
rim width, 80–81
semi-solid forged, 90
spinners, 90–92
“Whipple Charger” twin-screw
supercharger, 244
whp (wheel horsepower), 178
wide-body kit, 109
wings, 104–105
winter/snow tires, 64, 69, 71
WORKS P2 Boost Tube, 284
• X •
Xede (Chip Torque), 300–301

Before attempting to install any car seat, read both the car seat instructions and the child restraint section in the vehicle instructions.  These guides will tell you basic information that you need to know in order to properly install a car seat.  If you can’t find the instructions for your new car seat, try looking on the back of the seat, the bottom or under the cover for the booklet.  You can order a new instruction manual for free from the car seat manufacturer and many manufacturers now have manuals online in .pdf format.  If you can’t find your vehicle instruction manual, order a new one from the dealer parts department.  There will be a charge for your vehicle manual.

Check the label on your vehicle’s seat belt to learn how to lock it.

For a rear-facing seat, recline it first, before trying to install it. Thread the vehicle’s seat belt through the correct belt path on the car seat and buckle it. Then lock the seat belt in place.
Light bouncing or rocking from side to side on the car seat will help you achieve a tighter fit.

If your vehicle seat reclines, recline it and install the car seat as tightly as possible.  Then put the vehicle seat back upright for a tight installation.

Non-slip shelf liner may help keep the car seat from sliding on leather seats.  Install the car seat first to be sure that you are getting a good fit, then reinstall with the shelf liner.     Get the seat belt as tight as you can, then unbuckle it.  Holding onto the seat belt tightly, let it retract 1/2″ to 1″ and rebuckle.

Use the car seat for leverage.  Lay across the seat and rotate your weight toward the buckle as you insert the latchplate into the buckle.

If the latchplate (male end) is at an odd angle as it goes into the car seat belt path, it is acceptable to twist the seat belt buckle (female end) up to 3 complete turns.  With each twist, however, you are losing strength and integrity in the seat belt, so it is recommended to twist just until you can get the latchplate to lie flat.

If your lap-only belt won’t stay tight, you can flip the latchplate upside down and then buckle it.

Grasp the seat belt as close to the latchplate as you can to pull it tight.

Put one hand on the edge of the car seat closest to the buckle.  With the other hand, grasp the seat belt as close to the latchplate as you comfortably can and pull tight.

LATCH

Installation will vary slightly depending on whether you are using a new LATCH-compatible car seat or a retrofit kit from the car seat manufacturer.  Be certain that you understand the car seat manufacturer’s instructions on using LATCH and read your vehicle’s instruction manual very carefully.  Only newer vehicles have LATCH anchors in the back seat and the vehicle’s manual will state specifically if LATCH is available in your vehicle; look under the child restraint section.  All car seats (belt positioning booster seats, car beds and vests are exempted) manufactured after September 1, 2002, must be LATCH-compatible, though they may still use the vehicle’s seat belt to be installed in non-LATCH vehicles.  For more information on LATCH, see the FAQ.  If your vehicle isn’t equipped with LATCH, continuing reading through the sections on installing car seats below that apply to your situation.

LATCH-compatible car seat:

If you are installing a car seat that is already LATCH equipped, you need to follow the manufacturer’s instructions.  Be sure to use the appropriate LATCH belt paths; i.e. use the rear-facing LATCH belt path for a rear-facing installation and the forward-facing LATCH belt path for a forward-facing installation.  Your car seat instruction manual will tell you how to position the LATCH belt in the proper path.

Very few vehicles have LATCH anchors in the center position of the back seat, so this is likely to be an outboard installation.  Read your vehicle’s instruction manual carefully to determine where you may install the car seat.  You may not use LATCH to install your car seat in the center seating position if the vehicle doesn’t have LATCH anchors specifically for that  position.  Snap the hooks firmly onto the vehicle’s LATCH anchors and verify they are correctly connected.  Following the car seat manufacturer’s instructions, pull the belt(s) tight so that the car seat moves less than 1″ when you tug on it at the belt path.  You may need to lightly bounce or put weight on the seat as you pull the belt tight.  Seats with rigid LATCH connectors, instead of the more common belt with hooks, adjust as you push them tighter into the vehicle seat.  For a forward-facing car seat, attach the car seat’s top tether to the tether anchor directly behind the car seat and pull it tight.

Using a retrofit kit:

If you are installing a car seat with a LATCH retrofit kit, follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.  Not all car seats can be retrofitted with LATCH and you cannot use a LATCH retrofit kit from a manufacturer other than the one who made the car seat.

A retrofit kit installation is similar to a vehicle seat belt installation.  Thread the retrofit belt through the appropriate belt path and attach the hooks to the vehicle’s LATCH anchors.  The rear-facing belt path is under the child’s legs (except for Century 1000/2000/3000 series seats and some infant seats).  The forward-facing belt path is behind the child’s back.  Be sure that the hooks are firmly snapped onto the anchors.  Very few vehicles have LATCH anchors in the center position of the back seat, so this is likely to be an outboard installation if you choose to use LATCH.  Read your vehicle’s instruction manual carefully to determine where you may install the car seat.  You may not use LATCH to install your car seat in the center seating position if the vehicle doesn’t have LATCH anchors specifically for that  position.  Pull the belt tight so that the car seat moves less than 1″ when you tug on it at the belt path.  You may need to lightly bounce or put weight on the seat as you pull the belt tight.  For a forward-facing car seat, attach the car seat’s top tether to the tether anchor directly behind the car seat and pull it tight.

Using LATCH in the center position of the back seat.  Unless your vehicle’s manual states specifically that you can use the center position of the back seat for LATCH, you cannot install a car seat using the LATCH attachments.  Use the vehicle’s seat belt instead.
*

Using both LATCH and the vehicle’s seat belts to install the car seat.  Use either LATCH or the vehicle’s seat belts, not both.
*

Not following manufacturer instructions.  Because there is such a wide range of LATCH retrofit kits and seats with LATCH now, it is imperative that you read the instructions carefully.  Don’t forget to read your vehicle’s manual as well.  If your vehicle’s manual doesn’t mention LATCH (ISOFIX), you don’t have it and can’t use it.  You may, however, have a top tether anchor for use with the car seat’s top tether when the car seat is forward-facing.
*

Using the wrong retrofit LATCH kit for the car seat.  Manufacturers have designed LATCH retrofit kits to fit specific car seats; for instance, not all Evenflo car seats can use the Evenflo LATCH retrofit kit.  Never use a LATCH retrofit kit from one manufacturer on a seat made by a different manufacturer.
*

Using LATCH attachments to secure a booster seat.  Some combination seats, seats with harnesses that convert to a booster, can only use LATCH when used with the harness.  When the combination seat is converted to a booster seat to be used by the child with the vehicle’s lap/shoulder belt, remove the LATCH attachments.
*

Using the tether anchors behind the back seat as LATCH attachments.  The locations of LATCH anchors generally are marked on the vehicle seat.  The vehicle’s manual will also state the location of LATCH anchors.
*

Using the LATCH retrofit kit backwards.  Some kits specify which hooks to use on which side of the car seat.
*     Using a locking clip while using the LATCH belt.

Rear-Facing Seats

When To Use:                                    Graco SnugRide DX5 Infant Seat    Britax Roundabout Convertible Seat

Infant seats: generally up to 20 or 22 lbs (read manual or look for sticker on side of seat) and 26-28″ (read manual or look for sticker on side of seat; seat is OK to use until baby’s head reaches the top of the plastic part of the seat, regardless of actual height–press the cover down to feel for the structure of the seat)

Convertible seats: most up to 30 lbs. (read manual or look for sticker on side of seat); a few are only up to 22 lbs.–buy one that goes to 30 lbs, 33 lbs. or 35 lbs.; Cosco convertible seats are up to 35 lbs.

How To Install:

1. Read the instruction manuals for both the vehicle your installing the car seat in and the car seat. Read them slowly and in a quiet place where you won’t be disturbed. You may find that you need special equipment to install the car seat in your vehicle.

2. Put seat into place in the vehicle. The middle of the back seat is best, but you may not get the best fit there. It’s better to have a great fit in an outboard position than to have a mediocre fit in the middle position.  NEVER place a rear-facing seat in the front seat if there is a passenger-side air bag.

3. Thread the seat belt latchplate (male end) through the path marked for rear-facing seats (assuming convertible seats; infant seats have only one belt path) and connect it to the buckle (female end).  The belt path is usually marked with stickers, but if it isn’t, is it usually either under the child’s thighs or over the child’s thighs on a rear-facing car seat.

Lap-only belt/LATCH installation: This is usually the easiest installation!  Putting weight on the seat with your knee or foot (if you’re very agile), pull the tail of the lap belt as tight as you can.  Never use a locking clip with a lap-only belt!

Lap/shoulder belt installation: This is a more complicated installation.  Some seat belts lock at the retractor (pull the seat belt out all the way–you’ll hear a ratcheting sound and won’t be able to pull out any slack), so a locking clip isn’t required; however, more often than not, locking a seat belt by locking the retractor will cause a rear-facing car seat to tip because the shoulder belt will pull up on it.  Therefore, I suggest using a locking clip instead of locking the retractor.  Putting weight on the seat with your knee or foot (if you’re very agile), pull the shoulder portion of the belt as tightly as you can.  It may take more than one person to get it really tight.

4. Check the angle of the car seat. Newborns and young babies should ride at a 45 degree angle. To see if you have a 45 degree angle, take a piece of paper and fold one corner down so that it meets the opposite edge. You will have a right triangle. The slope of the triangle will show you what 45 degrees looks like. Just compare that to the seat angle. Many seats also have built-in gauges. Don’t lay the seat flatter than 45 degrees. The baby will ramp up (slide up) in a collision and risk being ejected from the seat or hitting his head on something within the vehicle. You can use up to 3 pool noodles to achieve this angle, if necessary. A rolled towel will suffice until you can find a noodle; towels compress quite a bit in collisions, whereas a noodle is stronger. Older babies can ride in a more upright position. In fact, it’s safer for them to do so, unless their heads flop down onto their chests while they are sleeping.

5. Use the harness slots at or below the child’s shoulders.

6. Make sure the harness is snug.

7. Have your installation double-checked by a certified technician.

Does It Fit?

From the side of the seat, grasp the seat at the belt path. Tug and push once or twice. If the seat doesn’t move, congratulations! That is an excellent fit. If the seat moves, but it’s less than one inch (1″), you have an acceptable fit. If it moves more than one inch, try re-installing the seat again. If it still moves more than one inch, try installing the seat in a different back seat position or take the seat back to the store and buy a different one. A lot of stores will let you try car seats out before you buy one.

Press down at the top of the car seat. Does it squish down into the vehicle seat? Try sitting or standing on the seat to compress the cushion and re-tighten the vehicle’s seat belts. The car seat should not be able to press down into the vehicle’s seat very much and the seat should return to it’s previous position.

It is OK for the car seat to flip toward the back seat.  This is called cocooning and rear-facing car seats are supposed to do this. If you have a Britax convertible seat or an older model  Safeline Sit-’n-Stroll (read instructions to verify use of rear-facing tether), you may tether these seats to a structural, non-moving part of your vehicle while they are rear-facing. Click here for more information on tethering a Britax seat.  This will eliminate that movement toward the back seat if you tether them to the front seat track, for instance.

If your car seat touches the backs of the front seats, that is OK and even ideal. The front seats will provide support in a collision when the crash forces push the car seat down. It is NOT safe for a Century SmartMove or Evenflo PortAbout to touch the front seat backs. The SmartMove car seat is designed to rotate into an upright position in the event of a collision and should NEVER touch the front seats as they may interfere with this motion.  The PortAbout manual specifically states that there must be 1″ between the car seat and front vehicle seats.

Video

Watch a rear-facing convertible seat being installed!  The same techniques are used for an infant seat installation.

When To Use:                                        Britax Marathon Convertible Seat    Maxi Cosi Priori Forward-Facing Only Seat    Britax Husky Forward-Facing Only Seat

Convertible seats: after one year of age AND 20 lbs. until child reaches 40 lbs. (exception: Britax Marathon, Decathalon, and Wizard, which have an upper weight limit of 65 lbs.) or when tops of ears reach the top of the plastic part of the seat (press down on the cover to feel for the actual structure of the seat) or shoulders are above the top harness slots; some convertible seats are also high-back boosters that reach higher weight limits. Read your car seat’s manual or look at the stickers on the side or back of the seat.

Forward-facing only seats: after one year of age AND generally 22 lbs.-40 lbs. (exception: Britax Husky, which has an upper weight limit of 80 lbs.)

How To Install:

Use the same installation methods as for rear-facing seats, with some modifications.

1. Read the instruction manual to determine which harness slots to use. On many seats, only the top slot is reinforced for crash forces. Exceptions: Britax products, Cosco Alpha Omega (aka 3-in-1, Eddie Bauer 3-in-1) and Alpha Omega Elite, Cosco Scenera and the Safeline Sit-’n-Stroll, where all slots are reinforced; some other convertible seats have the middle or 2nd to top slots reinforced. Click here to see a seat where the wrong slots were used.

2. Place the car seat so that the base is flat on the vehicle seat and the back of the car seat is flush against the back cushion. If a head rest pushes the car seat forward, raise it or remove it, if possible. If the head rest isn’t removable, move the car seat to a different position in the back seat or find a different car seat more compatible with your vehicle.

3. Use the forward-facing only belt path on the car seat.  This belt path is marked with stickers and is generally located on the back of the seat (it is never under the child’s thighs for a forward-facing car seat).  If you are using LATCH, be sure to read the car seat manual for instructions on how to move the LATCH connectors to the forward-facing belt path.

4. All new seats come with forward-facing tethers that can be attached to a vehicle’s tether anchors. Use a tether if the car seat has one (some older models can be retrofitted with tethers; call the car seat manufacturer). Tethers can reduce forward head excursion by up to 8″ ! Take a yardstick out to your car and measure from the back seat to the front seat and you will see how valuable 8″ can be. Your vehicle’s tether anchors may be marked with this symbol:

If your vehicle doesn’t have tether anchors, read the vehicle’s manual to see if it can be retrofitted. Many vehicles made since 1989, and some earlier ones, can be retrofitted (because tethers have been required in Canada for many years). Many dealers will install a tether anchor for free (GM dealers are required to install one tether anchor for free in MY ’89-’99 vehicles per service bulletin 99-09-40-004, January 2000). You can also install a tether anchor easily by yourself. **Be sure to use only the vehicle manufacturer’s tether anchor bolt!** Using a generic tether anchor bolt that comes with many car seats could possibly strip out your anchor point, making it useless.  Call your vehicle’s manufacturer for more information or you can email me for a part number.  If you own a MY 1998-2000 Toyota Sienna, click here to see instructions for installing tether anchors.  To attach a tether, find the vehicle manufacturer approved anchor and connect the tether strap to it.  Pull the tether strap tight and tuck the excess belt behind the car seat.

5.  Make sure the harness is snug.

6. Have your installation and use of the car seat double-checked by a certified technician.

Does It Fit?

Grasp the seat at the belt path. Tug and push once or twice. If the seat doesn’t move, congratulations! That is an excellent fit. If the seat moves, but it’s less than one inch, you have an acceptable fit. If it moves more than one inch, try re-installing the seat again. If it still moves more than one inch, take the seat back to the store and buy a different one. A lot of stores will let you try car seats out before you buy one.

Again, grasp the seat at the belt path. Pull away from the vehicle’s seat back. If the seat doesn’t move, congratulations! That is an excellent fit. If the seat moves, but it’s less than one inch, you have an acceptable fit. If it moves more than one inch, try re-installing the seat again. If it still moves more than one inch, take the seat back to the store and buy a different one.

Movement at the top of the seat away from the vehicle’s seat back or side to side is NOT OK. Use a tether if you can. It will help stop this movement.

Video

Watch a forward-facing convertible seat being installed!

Combination Seats/Belt Positioning Boosters

When To Use:                                            Graco Cherished CarGo Combination Seat    bigkid.jpg (34071 bytes)

Can be used from about 20 lbs.-80 lbs.; belt positioning boosters have higher minimum weights.  A combination seat has a 5-point harness that can be used to 40 lbs. (exception: Nania Airway, which has a harness that can be used to 50 lbs.), then converts to a belt positioning booster by removing the harness.  It’s best to use a combo seat when the convertible seat is outgrown. Many parents graduate their kids to combos when they meet the minimum height and weight requirements for the seat, but they are compromising safety and comfort in doing so.  Remember that a child under age 1 must remain in a rear-facing seat and rear-facing past age 1, if the child still fits in the seat rear-facing, is safest.  If your child has outgrown his infant seat, look at a convertible seat instead of a combo seat.  Convertibles have better side head protection than boosters and that also gives the child more support when sleeping in the car.  Use a forward-facing convertible until the child’s ears reach the top of the seat (plastic shell), the weight limit is reached, or the shoulders are above the top harness slot. It is a tough decision in some circumstances and a call to a certified child passenger safety technician may be valuable.

Boosters should be used until the vehicle’s seat belts can fit the child comfortably when s/he sits normally in the car. A child can use the vehicle’s seat belt without a booster when: the child’s knees easily bend over the seat cushion, the child’s bum is firmly against the back cushion, the seat belt fits low over the hips (if it sits higher, serious abdominal injuries may occur in a crash) and the shoulder portion of the belt comes across the chest without cutting into the neck. Children usually meet these criteria around 9-11 years of age and 80 lbs.

How To Install:

When using the combo seat with a harness, use the same installation methods as for forward-facing seats.  Since all harness slot positions on a combo seat are reinforced, you may use any slots above the child’s shoulders.

Belt positioning boosters should fit the shape of the vehicle seat so that the booster sits flat.  You may use a no-back booster if your vehicle has adequate head rests for whiplash protection.  Your child may find a high back booster to be more comfortable for sleeping in, however.  Be sure to buckle the booster when your child is not using it; it can be a projectile in a crash.

If you have lap-only seat belts in your back seat and your child is over 40 lbs., please see the list of “Niche Seats” available to you.  These seats are also good choices if you choose to have your child harnessed over 40 lbs.

Don’t forget to have your installation and use of the car seat or the fit of the child in the booster seat double-checked by a certified technician.

Does It Fit?

When using the harness on the seat: Grasp the combo seat at the belt path. Tug and push once or twice. If the seat doesn’t move, congratulations! That is an excellent fit. If the seat moves, but it’s less than one inch, you have an acceptable fit. If it moves more than one inch, try re-installing the seat again. If it still moves more than one inch, take the seat back to the store and buy a different one. A lot of stores will let you try car seats out before you buy one.

Again, grasp the seat at the belt path. Pull away from the vehicle’s seat back. If the seat doesn’t move, congratulations! That is an excellent fit. If the seat moves, but it’s less than one inch, you have an acceptable fit. If it moves more than one inch, try re-installing the seat again. If it still moves more than one inch, take the seat back to the store and buy a different one.

Movement at the top of the seat away from the vehicle’s seat back is NOT OK. Use a tether if you can when the combo seat is used with the harness only. It will help stop this movement.

When using a booster seat:  don’t forget to have the seat buckled in when your child isn’t using it. It can become a projectile in a crash.
Locking Clips

When to use:

Use a locking clip only with a combination lap/shoulder belt.

The locking clip is designed to help keep the lap portion of the belt tight in a collision. A locking clip should NEVER be used with a lap-only belt (exception: Britax Roundabout; instructions say that the built-in locking clips may be used with a lap-only belt). In that instance, it may give you a false sense of security and become a projectile in a collision. It’s best to read the car seat manufacturer’s manual thoroughly when dealing with locking clips.

Please go here for a much more thorough explanation of when and how to use a locking clip.

Old Seats/Used Seats/Seats That Have Been In A Collision

Strolee

If a seat was manufactured 10 or more years ago, destroy it and throw it out.  Click here to see why.  If it’s between 6 and 10 years old, call the manufacturer to determine if you can still use it. If you bought a used car seat, evaluate very carefully if you want to continue to use it.  It is recommended not to use a pre-owned seat if you do not know the history of the car seat or how it was treated and stored.  Ask yourself this question: do I trust the person from whom I bought this seat with my child’s life?  Also, you will find an excellent checklist at CPSafety.com.

If you have been in a collision (even a 5 mph fender-bender), replace the seat. Plastic wears down over time and most seats have a life span of about 6 years. In some cases you can’t see the damage from age and/or a crash and won’t know that the seat is bad until you are in a crash and it fails. It’s truly better to be safe than sorry. Also, remember that technology improves every year and every year seats get better. There are many inexpensive seats available and if you can’t afford one, there are local agencies that can help.

ARE DUST SHIELDS STANDARD OE EQUIPMENT ON NEW CARS?

Yes, dust shields are standard factory OE Equipment on certain models. Kleen Wheels has been on the market for over 20 years – in excess of three million pairs on the road.
DO THEY EFFECT THE BRAKES?

Customers often question whether Kleen Wheels have an effect upon the braking system. Consider a Mercedes Benz as factory delivered in Germany, usually delivered with a steel wheel and a stainless steel hubcap as standard equipment. Does this wheel / hubcap design allow for any passage of air through the wheel? If an American customer were to buy the same vehicle in the United States, where we usually find the vehicles come standard loaded with alloy wheels, and the customer installs a pair of Kleen Wheels brake dust shields (an inside hubcap) into the alloy wheels – would there be any more or less air circulating through the wheels than the vehicle was originally designed for with a steel wheel and an outside hubcap? The same amount, of course.
HOW DO KLEEN WHEELS FIT?

Kleen Wheels are designed to fit easily into the inside of a wheel, just like an inside hubcap. It is a common misconception that Kleen Wheels fit onto the car. Kleen Wheels brake dust shields are designed to fit the wheel (as opposed to the car). We must always ask “what WHEEL we are fitting”, and not “what CAR we are fitting”

To make this point perfectly clear – the Kleen Wheels fit into the wheel like an inside hubcap and therefore the first question we must ask when reading our Application List is WHAT WHEEL ARE WE TRYING TO FIT? Is it a factory original wheel or is it an aftermarket wheel? When ordering, be sure to state whether you are fitting a factory wheel, or which specific after market wheel.

DO KLEEN WHEELS FIT ON THE FRONT WHEELS AND REAR WHEELS?

Kleen Wheels fit both on the front and on the rear of the vehicle. Because the front wheels do 70% of the braking, the front wheels get dirtier far quicker and more easily than do the rear wheels. For this reason customers think that they only need a single pair of Kleen Wheels for the front. Most upscale current model vehicles have disc brakes front and rear.

It is recommended that two pair be installed on a vehicle in order to achieve permanent protection front and rear. Also, when the wheels are rotated, the necessity for removing and replacing the Kleen Wheels is eliminated.
WHAT MATERIAL IS KLEEN WHEELS MADE OUT OF?

Kleen Wheels are manufactured of single – piece construction aircraft grade aluminum, coated with a life – time matte black finish.

HAVE KLEEN WHEELS BEEN OFFICIALLY TESTED?

The world’s leading safety standards testing laboratory is in Germany, where the standards are set for safety throughout the world. In Germany this testing is provided by TUV, a government agency created by law to test and evaluate OE equipment as well all aftermarket accessories. Kleen Wheels have been certified and approved by TUV. Keep in mind that we are talking about Germany – where the vehicles are driven on the Autobahn and in the Alps!

IS THERE A GUARANTEE?

Kleen Wheels are guaranteed for the lifetime of the product in the hands of the original purchaser in the original vehicle for which they were purchased. This written guarantee is enclosed with every pair of Kleen Wheels.
IS THERE TOLL FREE APPLICATION ASSISTANCE AND UPDATED INFO?

Yes, Kleen Wheels maintains toll – free telephone customer service to give you assistance with any questions you may have. The toll free telephone number is 1 – 800 – 327 – 6548. You can also call our tech support number at Automotive Accessories Connection: 1 – 216 – 441 – 9120

DO KLEEN WHEELS EFFECT THE BALANCE OF THE WHEEL?

No. Kleen Wheels brake dust shields are extremely light – weight and by their engineering design become self – centering upon installation thereby eliminating balance problems. For those wheels which have been high speed balanced on the vehicle, it is recommended to index the wheel studs on the wheel by a pencil mark or by tape before removing the wheel in order to ensure that the wheel is returned onto the hub in the same hub location.

Please select your vehicle

Acura	Hyundai	Mitsubishi
Audi	Infiniti	Nissan
BMW	Isuzu	Oldsmobile
Buick	Jaguar	Plymouth
Cadillac	Jeep	Pontiac
Chevrolet	Kia	Porsche
Chrysler	Land Rover	Saab
Dodge	Lexus	Saturn
Ford	Lincoln	Subaru
GMC	Mazda	Toyota
Honda	Mercedes	Volkswagen
Hummer	Mercury	Volvo

Dust from your brakes can ruin your racing wheels. It can cause the finish to corrode and deteriorate. Use caution when using cleaning agents containing harsh or abrasive chemicals, which can strip away the wheel’s protective coating, break up the paint or attack the aluminum alloy itself. Kleen Wheels are the smart permanent alternative. Every Kleen Wheels brake dust cover is made of high strength aluminum alloy. This amazing brake dust cover product fits securely between the hub and wheel just like an inside hubcap. Kleen Wheels patented turbo-venting design enhances your brakes cooling. The price of Kleen Wheels is insignificant when you compare the cost of replacing or refinishing your alloy rims. Kleen Wheels Brake Dust Shields are original factory parts on certain models.

Important Tips About brake Dust Covers and Wheel Care:

# Do not have your expensive alloy rims steam cleaned. The temperatures of these devices are too hot for the protective coating on your wheels and their surfaces may be come dull due to excessive and repeated temperature differential.

# Observe caution when visiting car washes. Some establishments use harsh acid cleaners to remove soils from road wheels.

# Never remove soils with abrasive cleaners, steel wool pads or polishing agents as the wheel coating may become damaged.

Kleen Wheels Brake Dust Shields – Kleen Wheels Corporation is the designer and manufacturer of the Kleen Wheels Brake Dust Shields. Kleen Wheels Brake Dust Shields are designed to permanently keep your car’s rims shiny clean. The brake dust cover shield fits inside your wheels just like an inside hubcap and keeps brake dust from settling on your wheels. Each set of Kleen Wheels Brake Dust Shields come with Installation Instructions.

SELECT YOUR MAKE
# Acura
#     Audi
#     BMW
#     Buick
#     Cadillac
#     Chevrolet
# Chrysler
#     Dodge
#     Eagle
#     Ford
#     Geo
#     GMC
# Honda
#     Hyundai
#     Infiniti
#     Isuzu
#     Jaguar
#     Jeep
# Kia
#     Land Rover
#     Lexus
#     Lincoln
#     Mazda
#     Mercedes
# Mercury
#     Mitsubishi
#     Nissan
#     Oldsmobile
#     Plymouth
#     Pontiac
# Porsche
#     Saab
#     Saturn
#     Subaru
#     Suzuki
#     Toyota
# Volvo
#     VW

It doesn’t matter whether you’re talking about a set of chrome dubs on your Navigator or ultra-light alloys on an Integra: Black brake dust all over your high-dollar rims really ruins the look you’ve spent all that money trying to get. The solution is a set of brake dust shields like those from Kleen Wheels. Kleen Wheels Brake dust shields, more correctly called disc brake dust shields, work by fitting a piece of material, in this case aluminum, between your rim and your brake disc. The disc brake dust that comes from your disc brake system is then kept from blowing outward to the front of your wheel, marring the appearance. Brake dust shields have also advanced a lot in the past few years, and Kleen Wheels dust shields will not interfere with disc brake cooling or cause disc brake overheating. If you own a car or truck with four-wheel disc brakes, be sure to order two sets of Kleen Wheels disc brake dust shields. While the front disc brakes generate most of the brake dust, the rear disc brakes also generate brake dust. So achieve the look you want and protect your wheels from unsightly disc brake dust, all without interfering with your car or truck’s braking ability with a full set of Kleen Wheels disc brake dust shields.